The last week has been one of the most difficult since I arrived in Africa. Once again, what was supposed to be a straight forward affair – going from Ethiopia to Djibouti – turned out into a nightmare.
The road going to Addis Ababa, the capital of Ethiopia, was an easy road, if you let on the side the perpetual danger of animals and human in the middle of the road. Ethiopians, like Kenyans, are driving like there is no tomorrow, and you have to be extra vigilant while driving.
In Addis, I had a very pleasant time at Wim’s Holland House, a campsite located in the center of the city. The place serves as a meeting point for all the overlanders using the east road to cross Africa. A bunch of people, mostly Europeans, spend time here waiting for visas, spare parts for their vehicles, or just to rest, drink beer and watch the World Cup. I watch the disappointing performance of the French, and I am the only one on the American side while they play, with many British bikers around. Addis is an OK place, and you can easily walk in the city, if you don’t mind people constantly asking you for money.
After a couple of days here, I decided to leave and get to Djibouti. Under the impression that French citizens don’t need a visa to go there, I didn’t bother stopping by the embassy.
It is a two-day journey across the desert to get to the border. Two roads are going to Djibouti. One of them is very good and used by many trucks. The other one is a terrible gravel road. Of course I did choose the first option, and left Addis happy, not suspecting I will end up not only taking the first road, but also the second, with no success whatsoever in getting to Djibouti.
I thought I knew bout hot weather. I didn’t. It was horrible to cross the desert. The temperature was horribly high, at around 45C, the air hazy, no shade anywhere, and a strong wind was blowing boiling air. The sky was gray, and the sun seemed huge.
I traveled with my head wrapped in a towel, and windows closed to avoid the hot wind. I have no AC in the truck, and doubt it would have helped. The temperature didn’t go down at night, and the wind shook the tent endlessly, making sleep impossible.
The following day I made it to the border, barely alive. I drove for about 600 miles (1,000 km), and you can imagine my disappointment to learn from the immigration officer that I would not be allowed in the country. If you do fly into the country, you automatically get a visa, but it is another story when traveling by road.
Of course, as you can imagine, I did everything I could to have the officials let me get into the country. I begged them for hours, spent 24 hours lobbying them, even sleeping in front of the immigration building. I tried everything with no success. I had no more Ethiopian money, and had to pay US$10 to place two calls to the French embassy in Djibouti, only to have to hear that they didn’t care about my case.
So this horrible trip was done for nothing. I was suffering now from heat exhaustion, and had to keep moving. The immigration officer mentioned to me that there may be a way to Djibouti through tracks in the desert. After going back south 200 km (125 mi), I tried the track, shown on no maps.
I have to admit, I was really afraid to take this direction. If I had any mechanical problem, I would be in the middle of nowhere, risking the worst in the extremely hostile environment. Unfortunately, or fortunately, the track finished with a collapsed bridge after 60 km (38 mi). Once again I had to backtrack.
The next solution was to try to drive back south-east and go to Dire Dawa to get a Djibouti visa at the consulate there. Another two-day trip.
After one day of driving, I was back in a colder area, a hilly region where tea and coffee grow. I had a nice fresh night, unfortunately just on the side of the road, as I could not find a proper area to camp. A shower would be a dream after all these days.
Late morning, I was showing up happy at the Djibouti consulate in Dire Dawa, taking for granted I would have no problem getting my visa. “But”, I was told, “the consul is in Djibouti, and will only be back in a week”.
Of course he was the only one who could sign for the visa. Another lost fight. The consulate employee advised me to go to the border, and explain the immigration officials my situation. Surely, she told me they will let me through. At this effect, I had to get to the second border crossing at the end of a terrible 250 km gravel road.
It took six hours to complete this road. The heat was terrible again, and the gravel on the road was so sharp it took a real toll on my tires. I was able to fix two puncture, but one of the back tire exploded, making necessary the use of my spare wheel. No there was no space for mistakes. If another tire blew, I will be stuck there forever. In addition, the area was not very safe, and as I was changing the tire, a group of Somali illegal immigrants, roaming the desert, took an interest in my possessions and gather around the truck, trying to put their hand on anything they could. I was constantly locking and unlocking the doors to grab tools and work under the truck. This episode I will remember as being one of the few times I felt in danger since the beginning of the trip.
But I made it to the border alive, driving as slow as 30 km/h (20 mph) to avoid a will be catastrophic tire blow up.
Of course I was decidedly in no luck, and this time Ethiopians officials kicked me out of the border area, in no gentle way, asking me to please get lost. They would no let me speak to the Djibouti officers, arguing I had no visa and had to go back.
In rage, and in the middle of the night, I decided to turn back and drive the entire dirt road back to Dire Dawa. There was anyway no way of sleeping anywhere in the desert where I would have been exposed to Somali gangs.
At 4 a.m. I was back in the city. The trip going back was slow, as I just went easy and slow, listening to an audio book, smoking Yemeni cigarettes and trying to not let the adventures of the week get to me. When you are alone and face all these difficulties, it is hard to not be down and suffer for the lack of luck. I know that failing is not an option, but this week, for the first time, I did wonder at times why in the world I would have left the comfort of my life to end up in such place and situation…
Exhausted, I slept few hours behind the wheel and woke up at 8:30 a.m., surrounded by people looking at me.
I started the truck, and drove back all the way to Addis where I arrived at 5 p.m. I will have to buy new tires there, as mine are in poor shape. My shock absorbers look like they are gone as well, with oil leaking out of them. Because of the heat, one of my car batteries is dead for good I believe, and some other electronic equipment like the GPS or even my iPod suffered greatly as well. I am in poor shape myself, feeling sick in the last two days, probably another consequence of the unsupportable temperatures. I had to unplug the fridge, which couldn’t make it anymore. In addition, I wasted hundred of dollars in fuel trying to get to Djibouti.
I imagine I will be pretty busy this next week. I plan to get the most urgent things fixed on the truck, and get few visas. The ideal will be to get Djibouti, Yemen and Saudi Arabia visa, so I will not have to worry about it later on.
So as you may have understand, the last week has not been easy. I will need a little bit of luck and some good news soon to overcome all the difficulties and do more than just try to survive.
Boy My friend, this sounds like the worse report yet- since day one. I know you must push on. But please do it in prayer and the leading of your Holy spirit. I will pray as well
Nick,
I’ve been following you since the beginning – be safe. Hope you can give yourself a little time to breath.
Hope someday I’ll buy your book and have you sign it.
Joanne in NJ
Please never feel how felt when you were driving back to Adis. All the things you mentioned last week was more than anyone sitting and typing in front of a computer could comprehend. But, you are a courageous man and never forget the hoarding you saw before “if there is no way God will make a way for you”
Everything will work out OK for you I am sure. I am so glad that you updated your blog today. For some reason I was worried about you since your last message. Get rested & repairs made to the truck and the necessary Visas, then head on out again. Just remember that you have many people following you and we care about your well-being. This past week was a learning experience…
Hey Nick
What a troubled story. Good to here that you made it out safe. I am concerned about the same aspets you have just been through. Will keep your experience in mind.
Cheers
Glenn
Bro! That’s INSANE!!!
Dont worry, every thing will get resolved. Stay strong. Our best wishes are with you.
Most people will spend a lifetime contemplating a trip like this, but you are living it. NO Regrets!
NICK,
SOUNDS LIKE YOU HAVE HAD A ROUGH WEEK…HANG IN THERE…!!!
REMEMBER..”IF IT WAS EASY ..EVERYBODY WOULD DO IT !!”
KEEP THE JOURNEY GOING..EILEEN AND I LEFT YOU A GIFT ON PAYPAL..
BUT GAS AND MOVE ON!!!
CHRIS&EILEEN
The visa requirements for some of these countries are just ridiculous. Oh you can fly in to the country and be fine, but if you drive we don’t want you. That’s silly. I hope you get all the paperwork you need in Addis Ababa and be sure to give some TLC to the LC. Good luck for the rest of your travels.
Keep up the trek, Nick! It sounds like you’ve hit a really big patch of bad luck, but think of all that you’ve done so far. I will continue to read about your adventures, hope that you get out of Addis Ababa w/o too much of pain and expense, and that you’re feeling healthy soon. On to bigger & better things, huh? My thoughts are with you!
Dear Nick:
What an ordeal. The title of your blog “The year of living dangerously” is very fitting as I read the all that you are experiencing with negotiating Ethiopia. I especially liked the line where you referenced leaving the comforts of your life back home…./ As a parent, my first reaction was to say, “well you know, you don’t have to do this and head back home”. Given the miles already covered there is no such thing as failing, at least I don’t how anyone could interpret you decisions as failure. But, again this is the parent in me thinking out loud. Nick, people from around the world have you in their daily thoughts and prayers, so you are covered; by the Grace of God, go Nick. I believe some good news is just around the corner. ML and our best,
-Joy and Paul
OMG! Nick! You are one brave soul!
I pray things will look up for you very soon!
Courage !! le “pire” est bientot derriere toi !!!
I hope that your luck changes for the better soon, but at least you are safe and in a city. Keep your head high, there are lots of us rooting for you!!!
Nic, i’ve been following your journey since the darian gap. Thanks for taking the time and effort to write down and share your adventure. Your writing reflects how drained you are. Maybe Addis is not too bad a place to recharge your batteries (proverbially). I’ve been there for a bit and it’s not all good, but beyond the “ferengi! ferengi!” there’s some upsides: super-fresh coffee and thick, cold fruit juices. My point: take it easy, you’ve still got a long way to go and maybe time seems to run away, but it’s your trip, your adventure. Don’t forget to kick back for a bit and enjoy it.
oh, and stay clear of the baby-blue cabs: lice in the seats!
S
Nicholas, be safe and well. Will be thinking of you this week, hoping you get what you need to continue your expedition. I love your posts!
Here’s some good news,Nick, if you’re a golf fan: as I read this I was watching your countryman Gregory Havret put up a very good performance at Pebble Beach to be 2nd at this point in the US Open. 3 holes to go; Good luck with the visa and red tape!
Don’t let this get you down Nick. You need a little R&R after that crushing heat and the visa disappointments to rejuvenate your entire self. Those are the type of things that can quickly steal your spirit. You don’t strike me as the type to give up. Give yourself some time in Addis to relax (take a shower! smile) and get all your visas lined up so that hopefully you don’t run into these border situations in these next countries you’ll be traveling through. God knows they are not going to be the easist countries for you to be passing through either, but if you’ve got your visas in line you can focus on the daily tasks at hand. You are doing something amazing. I don’t know if you feel that every day because of the trials you’ve experienced lately, but those of us that follow you know it. Be safe and forever godspeed.
Nick,
I was already nervous since it had been a bit longer than expected since your last posting.
The journey at this point seems at least challenging/impossible..
I wish I had some words of inspiration but please be careful and remember these are experiences that are not to be experienced by most. However, not worth your life.
Be careful and I am praying to hear from you again….
Oh my goodness.
That sounds so stressful and quite difficult.
What terrible luck to have to turn around and repeat the same roads, so many times.
Did you have any idea it would be so trying to get a visa to get through?
Hopefully your next week will be better and less challenging.
That’s quite an adventure you had recently. I hope you’re able to make the necessary repairs for your truck and secure your visas to continue on your journey.
Wow, I’m glad you didn’t get hurt/killed! This area of the world isn’t known to be very safe! I really think you need to fix your A/C as the heat is only going to get worse as you go through the Middle East! Only two days of 45 degrees heat makes you like this. Imagine going on for a week! Get that A/C fixed and get to Pakistan alive!
My prayers are with you.
Godspeed!
I’m following you since the beginning, what an adventure 🙂
I’m glad you made last week
wish you LUCK
Simon
I read this with amazement.
You sir, are a much better (and tougher) man than I.
Hi Nick,
I have been following your blog since the inception and truely admir you. Sorry for all the troubles you are facing. My suggestion is why don’t you try Eriteria and from there to Sudan or are you trying to cross to Yemen from Djibouti?
Good luck with ur travel.
Hang in there Nick!!!! Don’t give up. You can do this. You are an inspiration to so many. Stay the course.
hey nick, sounds like a rough go of it this week. If you find a Toyota dealer, the AC may just need to be recharged to work again. They can put on some new shocks as well. If you can get a new set of factory Toyota shocks they are your best bet, and not expensive (in the US anyway). Good luck out there, mike
You’ll be telling the story of this week for the rest of your life. Stay strong.
Effie
Toronto, Canada
I’ve been reading your postings ever since October. I know that we (your readers) can’t even begin to imagine what you’ve been through and what you’re going through, but just know that our thoughts are with you!
I’m praying for your safety and for your ability to get all the way around the world.
When is your estimate for making it back to the states?
God bless,
Kristen – Ohio, USA
Nicolas – Your experience in Ethiopia has been harrowing to say the least. Best of luck and here’s hoping things start looking up soon! Stay safe.
Thank you so much for letting us know how you are. I enjoy seeing your updates. So sorry to hear about the misadventures. Keep your head up. These are memories you will look back on and laugh about years from now.
Wishing you a safe trip,
Jennifer
Alabama, USA
I love reading about your adventure. What you have done so far is a major accomplishment in itself. Every trip has a point where you hit rock bottom. I had that moment when I sprained my ankle in a pothole on a rural road at 3 a.m. trying to find my guesthouse in a small town in India. Now it’s a great story, but at the time I was ready to quit. Remember, it can only go up from here, and it will be worth it! Hang in there!
Wow, you sure went through a lot this week – good for you for sticking through it, though it was full of disappointments
Hi Nick,
PLEASE don’t give up yet! I know good news will eventually arrives for you. Just hang in there 🙂
God bless you and please stay safe.
Wan
Amazing you found the time to take photos! Godspeed….my prayers are with you!
Nick,
I’ve been reading your adventures since last November. I decided to write this to let you know how much your efforts are appreciated. Like many of your readers, I admire your courage and fortitude in the face of the unknown, the unpredictable, and the truely dangerous. This journey will change your perspective on people and the world in general, mainly due to the disappointing, frustrating and frightening moments you have already encountered and will encounter again.
So, if it helps, I want to encourage you to keep going. Take a deep breath before speaking to the border officials, take care in who you trust, and above all stay positive!
Jason
Have followed you from the beginning,Nick,
Must admit I was some concerned the last couple weeks.
The photos are great, Places I’ll never see only through your eyes
Take care ,stay strong and GOD BLESS YOU…
Hi Nick,
I’ve been following you since day one. I’m sooo sorry to hear about what you went through this past week. Keep your head up and just remember that everything happens for a reason. Maybe this happened to help prepare you.
I wish you the best!
Nick, Your parents must be so proud of you and yet so worried….How often do you get to contact them? I can’t wait until you are someplace “safe” again. I am holding my breath! I am sorry you are not feeling well…how miserable….
Kathleen (North Dakota)
Nic,
I’m sorry to hear you had so many troubles trying to make it to Djibouti. My friends and I are anticipating your arrival and can’t wait to sit down and have a beer and chat about your experiences. I’m sure it will be nice for you to be in the presence of some English speaking Americans and of course a few French around town as well…lol. Good luck this week on getting to Djibouti. There will be a few Heinekens and some A/C waiting for you…as long as the power doesn’t go out…(sometimes a problem here). Godspeed to you!
Dave
Oh Nicolas, what a tale you are living!! At the moment it is CRAZY hard, but the story will be one you will never tire of remembering.
Take some time, get things fixed on the truck, rest up yourself and recharge you and your AC. I have a feeling the scarey moments haven’t all passed you by, but you sure are handling them well.
You do have people all over the world who think about you every day and wish you well. You may feel alone, but we all think of you, worry about you and some of us send you money so you can get the good tires or a night in a hotel with a shower.
Please be safe Nic, we’re all cheering you on in our little corners of the world!!
Dan, Lisa & Bryce in Minnesota
Nick, You are on a remarkable journey – well done. However, please reconsider motoring Yemen. Your published route takes you into Sudan. Stay that route. Yemen is not a place for any outsider – it’s real trouble mate. Consider your failed attempt to Dibouti as a “sign”. Maintain course to Sudan. Then Saudi – good luck friend.
November, 2009… Nick’s Blog:
“I was lucky enough to receive a visit from Al Podell, a New Yorker and veteran traveler… Back in the mid-1960s, Al and his friend Harold Stephens circumnavigated the world in a Toyota Land Cruiser. They drove across 42,000 miles and crossed more than 30 countries at a time where it was probably more difficult than today. They wrote a book when they came back, which I bought few years ago. It was a major inspiration for my trip, and I was incredibly surprised when Al agreed to meet with me. He was doubtful I could succeed in my journey, but he gave me valuable advice about my safety…”
Keep your head up… if you make it you’ll be a hero… if you don’t you’ll be a failure! No matter how many ways the liberal mind tries to spin it… you’ll forever be a looser. If you weren’t going to succeed you should have never ventured out on this road to begin with. This is going to be your one and only shot. One day your children will measure themselves by your success or failure. Don’t let them… or yourself down.
We’ll all be there when you cross the finish line in body or spirit. Fight on… don’t give in!!!
Remember, even if you may be (physically) alone in the middle of the desert, you’ve got plenty of supporters on here cheering you on! And now you probably will never forget to check a country’s visa requirements ahead of time, so hopefully this situation won’t happen again. This setback will make you a stronger person. It ain’t perfect, but you’re still living the dream!
WOW! What a trip! What persistence you have! Worry about how you’re doing. Take care! J. Z.
Nick,
You certainly have had it rough as of late! Be safe and I’ll be thinking of you. I left you something on Paypal. I am here to support you and if there is anything you need let me know.
Sincerely,
Victoria
All,
Thanks so much for your support, really needed that right now, and feel way better.
Here’s a little update. I have no success yet getting a letter from the embassador of djibouti in ethiopia authorizing me to cross the border with my car. The president of ARB USA contacted me and will send me four new shocks to Djibouti, where a friend (David who commented here) will receive them. I can’t take the sudan or kenya route now with my shocks. I have two weeks left on my ethiopian visa. If i can’t get into Djibouti, i will be in some trouble and facing difficult choices. I will let you know as soon as possible what’s going on. And thanks again everybody.
nick
Holy Crap!! U are in BF Africa!! instead of BFE. LOL I really liked the advice that that Dr. Joy gave you! Also everyone else that is forging on with you. Get refreshed and try to clear you head a bit. Maybe a good strong drinking nite! It sound like your body and your buddy are wore down, but just like the other times you had truck trouble u certainly forged forward after all the fustration.
So happy that everyone here lifted your spirits!
FORGE ON MY FRIEND!!
Ms. Marti – Nashville, TN
Hey Gang,
To thank the people @ ARB-USA for helping Nick… you can send a message to:
Jim Jackson
President, ARB-USA
JJackson@ARBUSA.com
I just talked to his AdMin and she gave me the e-dress.
Cheers,
Harvey
Glad you are feeling better Nick. Comments from your friends and supporters help me stay positive and not worry so much. Everyone is so positive with passing on their sincere well wishes. You are not alone on any decision. The positive universal energy is real. Now more than any other time I am happy that my colleagues and I had an opportunity to spend quality prayerful time with you in South Africa. Like a prayer you are a daily habit. Thanks for the update. Hugs,
-joyMaria
Nick,
Maybe you should point the ambassodor of Djibouti to this website, so he could see the legitimacy of your request. Perhaps he is an adventurous man also. You never know.