I flew to Johannesburg the night of April 14. In the morning of the 15, the plane stopped in Cape Town for an hour and an half, and around 1 p.m., I arrived at destination.
The country is getting ready for the World Cup, and the airport is a mess. As a result, I can’t locate the bus going to the city center, and have to get a ride with one of the many not-so-official cab you find there. It costs me US$30 to get in the city center.
The immense city is born in 1886 of a huge gold rush. The population is still divided between the highly secure primarily white suburbs and the blacks in townships and squatters camps. Dr. Joy Scott, one of the American followers of the blog invited me to spend few nights at the Wits University campus, one of the biggest universities in Africa and one of the rare multiracial enclaves during apartheid. I spend three days there, preparing my upcoming travel. I get some maps, and I try to trace the route ahead, getting information on the internet about dirt roads, river crossing and availability of visa at country borders. Message boards are useful, as you get first hand information from people who drove the roads recently.
The route is getting more precise. I will get my truck in Durban, follow the coast and go north to the Kruger Park before crossing to Mozambique from there. Dirt roads should lead me south-east back to the coast at Chidenguele. I will travel north to the Parque Nacional da Gorongosa after enjoying the beaches around Inhambane.
In Caia, I will cross the Rio Zambeze and continue north-east and see Pemba on the coast before going back inland and cross the Rio Rovuma – marking the border with Tanzania – in Negomane, taking advantage of the new bridge. Few days after, I should be able to make it to Dar Es Salaam, the capital of Tanzania.
Days go by, and it is time for me to go visit Jerome Delay, another AP-colleague who I worked with in Paris, and is now the chief of photo for Africa. He lives in Johannesburg since 2005 with Benedicte Kurzen, photographer as well. You can see examples of the work they do here and here.
I spend few days with them, and Jerome help me out getting my stuff ready. He takes on his time to drive me around the city. I should have rent a car when I arrived at the airport, as you can’t navigate Johannesburg without a vehicle. The city is dangerous, and is reminiscent of Los Angeles, where you don’t see a soul walking the streets. Violence seems to have decreased in the last years, but when everybody tells you that you should not go out by foot on your own, you begin to feel a little bit paranoiac.
We go to the Automobile Association, where I have to make changes to my Carnet de Passage, the equivalent of my truck passport. Since I decided to change my route from the West to the East coast, I have to add the new countries to the document. They are really helpful there, and it is done in ten minutes. If you find yourself in a similar case, contact ¬¬ Meliza Chegwidden (MChegwidden [AT] AASA.CO.ZA), she is the best. Changes are free while it would have cost US$500 in North America.
Meanwhile, I get new information from Jerome and his friends. It looks like getting visas for Sudan and Saudi Arabia is now easier. I also get confirmations that there are boats three times a week between Sudan or Eritrea to Saudi Arabia. It seems that it would work for me.
Also, I spend some time with Dr. Joy Scott and her colleagues who came from the U.S. They visit some schools in Soweto to observe methods of teaching, but primarily to tell them about the methods they specialize in. It is all about identifying gifted kids and to prepare a specific curriculum for them, a method unheard of in Africa where most efforts are directed into getting basic things rolling, like getting electricity in classrooms.
Soweto stands for South Western Township, where four millions people live in 140 square kilometers. It is now wealthiest than it has been, and easy to visit.
We spend time in the township and go to eat at world famous Wandie’s, a legendary restaurant close to Winnie Mandela’s mansion. On the menu, spicy oxtail stew and potjie kos which is beef and vegetable stew. Later, we visit the house Nelson Mandela lived before he got arrested in 1956, and hold our breath at the Hector Peterson museum, dedicated to keep the memories of the 1976 Soweto uprising fresh.
Every week on Thursday, there is a train leaving Johannesburg to Durban with sleeping options. I get a small compartment for less than US$40, and at 6:30 p.m., the train departs for its 13 hours trip. You can travel on the Shosholoza Meyl in a seat for US$10, but at this price, I may as well get some sleep, and be in good shape to attack all the formalities to free my truck.
Although it is cold in the train, the trip is much nicer than taking the bus. Shortly after leaving Johannesburg, a bunch of people attack the train, throwing rocks and breaking windows. I hide under the table. The train continues. Looking at other people, it looks like it is business as usual.
The night goes by fast as I read and get a very nice night of sleep. In the morning, I discover a shower in the car, and take advantage of this luxury.
We arrive in Durban a little bit late, and I negotiate a cab ride to the sea front. My plan for the day is to sort out the customs with SARS, the equivalent of the American IRS. I knew it will not be simple, and of course it is not. Few hours later I had navigated several offices with no success. Nobody knows anything. Finally I have no other choice but get a clearing agent who will deal with them, as well as getting a warehouse space where I can unload my truck. I wanted to avoid that to save money, but there is no way around. The bad news is that it will cost me more than US$1,300 to pay the port dues, the container transportation, the warehouse and the agent.
But there is no better options, so I try to stay positive, even when I learn that the boat transporting my truck is late, and will not make it to the port before the following Friday, instead of Monday. After that, the container will be stuck for the weekend. I will consider myself lucky if I can get my vehicle on the Wednesday after that. It will be costly, as I will have to go to a hostel for ten days. Again, there’s nothing I can do, so after I sort out everything I can, I just take a cab to the Nomads Backpacker hostel, which seems nice and cost US$16 a night.
There, I will wait and get ready for more trouble, as I know getting the truck out will not be as easy.
For the kind of journey I am undertaking, I learned soon enough one quality is more important than courage or strength. Patience.
Hello! I have been checking your blog every day seeing if you have written anything else. My grandmother read something in a newspaper about your trip and told me about it a few weeks ago. That night I read through ALL your posts so far. I am so interested in this and love traveling!! My boyfriend and I planned a trip to go through all the countries in Central and South America. I’m excited! I’m glad you are doing well and safe! You can make it all the way!!! 🙂
This seem’s very dangerous -I dont like some of the things and mean people you will and have had to see around you. Will be praying for your safety.
Stop smoking please. Once the damage is done, it’s done. You can’t regenerate lung tissue. I treat people everyday that wish they had never smoked.
You will be fine! Hang in there. Good to hear the positive news about the route, the ferries and the easiness of getting into the Arabic states…
Our truck is almost back together… Like brandnew!
It’s amazing just how much life calls for that one little word, patience. That is often the hardest feeling for me to control as well. Best of luck to you in your so far successful journey. We are praying for you every step of the way.
Hello Fellow TWE followers,
I’ve been following Nick’s blog since the beginning as have many of you. I’ve written Nick once. I thought it would be nice to see just how many followers Nick has by asking all to send in a comment on a giving day so we could see how many of us there really are. Not to mention it would give Nick a boost to see so many people concerned with his plight. So how about Tuesday, May 4th. This would give everybody time to read up and be able to post on that day. Who’s with me?
Think of you during this time of patience! I have been following your blog since you started! Thank you take us on this trip with you! Sending you postive thoughts and prayers during your travels! Take Care, Janet Parker, Michigan,USA
It lives! Travel safe, good luck with truck.
Nick, I , too, enjoy smoking from time to time. Have one for me as the boredom one experiences while traveling alone can make welcoming a cigarette a real treat.
Keep up the fun! I’ve been following since day 1. I like to read up on the places you go and imagine myself breaking out of this cubicle and going there too. My eyes are set on South America now….all of it.
Nick,
Love your blogs. Keep the pics and stories coming. Stay safe and our prayers are with you.
Jennifer, Alabama, USA
Glad to hear your moving along fine! Patience and tolerance are two great qualities! Keep it up-be safe! My prayers and thoughts are with every step of the way!
Take care be safe!!
I’ve been following your blog from the beginning – I’m glad you made it to Africa safely and hopefully you’ll be able to get your truck without too much trouble.
I look forward to reading your blog every day, especially all the pictures you post!! I’ve never been out of the country so reading your blog is a real treat for me to see places I’m only able to read about and see through your eyes.
Good luck and take care and I’m wishing well every day.
Amber from Arizona, USA
Hi Nick,
I’m glad you made it to Africa safely! I’ll be keeping you in my prayers, and praying that you stay safe! I’m glad you’re enjoying your trip, I love reading your blog!
Hi Nick!
So glad to see the new posting. We have missed you. Really glad to got to visit with one of your followers. The children will be so excited to see their pics on your blog. Glad you made it through the thugs again. I probably would have wet my pants! LOL
To Manolo~ You have a great idea! Nick, do you have a counter on your site that shows all the hits you get? I won’t be able to hit the site on that day as I will be traveling, but will think of everyone responding.
Hope your friend doesn’t get held hostage for much longer!
Ms. Marti
I don’t know if you’ve ever been to Los Angeles, but please don’t compare it to Johannesburg. I won’t get into the reasons here besides the fact that LA is an American city that never supported or forced apartheid on its people, but these two cities are nothing alike. While you are obviously an educated and well traveled person, comments such as these discredit you somewhat in my opinion.
Nicolas: What a pleasure it was for me, and my colleagues, to spend almost a full day with you in Johannesburg and the Soweto township. How coincidental that we would have the chance to combine our international work in bringing best practices in gifted education to South Africa—as it relates to culturally diverse gifted learners—with an introduction to one of the most gifted young men we have ever known. Dr. Davis said that you were an old soul, traveling through time, immensely blessed and that you will be just fine on this journey. I don’t know much about old souls but I can tell you that you are exceptionally prudent, intuitive and so very likeable. What I loved most, and I am a parent of a daughter your exact age, is that we had a chance to pray with you and bless your journey especially throughout the continent of Africa. Thank you again for making it possible to meet you.
Dr. JoyMaria
Please spare me and others your lectures about quitting smoking, Rebecca. Try a different approach to being a concerned TWE follower! There is a time and place for everything underneath the sun…this venue is NOT the place and your timing is way off.
-Dr. JoyMaria
Hey Marti,
That’s funny! I will be in Nashville tomorrow. I will leave a comment in your name onTuesday. A site counter will either count sit hits or page views, there is no real way of knowing how many followers there are unless one actually counts them. I’m hoping that everyone (or most) will leave a brief comment on Tuesday with their name and location, that way we can see at the top of the page how many comments there are, and hopefully that equates to the number of followers.
Nick – I have been following your blog from the beginning. It’s been a great escape from my everyday, ordinary routine of a life and I’m sure for many this is our only chance to see the world where many of us may never travel. Please keep safe and keep posting LOTS of pictures. And yes, Patience and a Positive Attitude will get you through to the end of this fantastic journey! Charlene from New York State
Hi Nicolas,
I’ve been following your trip since the Day 1 and am happy to see you’ve made it to Africa safely. I’m sorry to hear your having a time getting your truck but hopefully everything will
be on again soon. They say Patience is a virtue. hahaha : )
I look forward to reading your blog everyday as I have found you and your trip to be absolutely amazing. You bring us all along with you everyday and we enjoy every morsel you
feed us. I’m liighting a candle for you to keep you safe and wishing you well Nicolas. Enjoy
each day of your adventure and know that you have many wonderful well wishers.
Good Luck and Take Care!!!
Hello Nicolas,
It felt like we had a flat tire and had to just sit on the side of the road waiting for the tow truck, which can feel like a very long time. Happy to see you up and ( almost ) running again. I hope you did enjoy your short break, really in the scheme of things, before beginning this track of your journey.
Be safe, smart and most of all trust your judgement of things, Dan, Lisa & Bryce
Manolo~ we have been here from the beginning and will for sure write on May 4th. Even wrote it on the calendar so I wouldn’t forget. I think Nicolas has a lot of people following his blog, it would be nice to see an approximate number. 🙂
Hey Nick,
I have been following the website since February, I live in Kansas City and am from Atlanta. I really miss home. I just appreciate what you have done for all of us reading your blogs and viewing your pictures. Following your journey is a great escape for a normal work routine. I plan on doing something out of the ordinary with my life very soon.
I understand that there are a lot of trying things that happen along the journey and I am impressed with how you have pushed through no problem everytime. Keep pushing on, you have a lot of fans out there that are constantly thinking about you and your journey and keeping up with you every step of the way. Good luck as you venture through Africa, and be safe. I will keep you in my prayers.
Manolo- I am putting it on my calendar to post on May 4th, great idea!
Ryan – Kansas City
Nick,
As you have given your readers so many great images and words to read, hopefully you leave something behind to mark your visit with the locals. The picture of Wandie’s Place which looks to have a bunch of business cards plastered on the walls reminded me of that. Although I imagine it won’t be hard to forget ‘the guy driving around the world’.
Godspeed.
JD from Texas
You are having such a wonderful, life-changing, memorable adventure! Hang in there! And think about all the people around the world who are cheering you on …
I miss you a lot!
That´s it.
Beijos, Dani.
Glad to see you posting again and actually out of the Toyota. The African part of the journey should be very very interesting.
Patience is something you must have when you are traveling like this. Your best laid plans ALWAYS get thrown aside when traveling.
Nick,
The images on your most recent post from South Africa are fascinating. It is such a pleasure to read your blog. All the very best on your onward journey through the African continent
Ravi – Seattle
To Dr.Joy Maria,
Thank you lol. The audacity of some people. Trying to tell a world explorer to quit smoking half way through a trip?!?! Go go go Nick!!!
Dr.Ken P.
hey nico! sorry to hear about the late arrival of the ship and other realted pbs.. hope you are having great weather in durban though…
we missed you at afrikaburn.. you have have truly enjoyed it.. though of you, we got 3 punctures on the truck… glad i took the small compressor along!
enjoy the beach while you wait, and gove us a call. u can always shoot back through joburg to recharge your batteries on the way up to Kruger.. the house is wide open!
cheers!!
j
hey nick,
nice post but the capital of tanzania is not dar es salaam – it is actually dodoma (part of a recent trend, it would seem, of countries trying to change their fortunes by changing their capitals… see also Bolivia and Myanmar, amongst others)… more importantly, seeing as you have a car, do everything in your power to avoid that city – we previously spent one night in dar and it was more than enough for a lifetime (LA is still worse, though – sorry dude that loves LA and doesn’t want it compared to Johannesburg)
the beauty of trips like yours and ours is that by having our own vehicles, we can explore the natural, cultural, culinary and other attractions of developing countries without having to go through the one massive, unorganized, unsafe and unattractive city that each country seems to have but most other travelers can’t avoid because of its vital importance in transportation… so just keep on trucking past dar (plenty of other nice nearby towns in tanzania’s mainland and zanzibar too)
good luck getting your truck out and let us know how it goes, as we’ll be in the same boat (no pun intended) in just 4 weeks
Hey Nick,
It would be cool if you could start a new blog on Tuesday so we can see the comments taking shape as the followers. Like if you don’t have enough on your plate to accomodate any request. I know.
Everybody! This is a last reminder to send in your comment on Tuesday. Just a quick hello and where you are following from.
Keeping in mind that someday you may be in Nick’s book, or movie!
Keep on truckin Nick!
Manolo-Corvette City, KY
Just started reading your site. I love what you are doing and great job at keeping everyone updated with pictures. I know how hard it is to find time to put together a post and upload while traveling!
Hi Nick,
Your trip is an inspiration to all who always said “I want to travel the world” but have never gotten off their butt to do it.
Audrey
doing the May 4th thing proposed by Manolo – hope you are enjoying the ‘country of my birth’ Nic and that you drive safely.
Kind regards,
Wim (a French hugenot descendant in Ohio).
I have enjoyed reading your postings. You are in my thoughts and prayers for a continued safe trip around the world.
Christina from Texas
BEST WISHES on your trip. Please be safe and enjoy all there is to see.
Sydna, from Pennsylvania
Greetings from South Dakota – hope all is well!
Nick,
How are you doing? Finally got your truck back? It’s been 12 days since we heard from you?
God Speed,
Monty
I love this story and check in often! I hope I am leaving my comment in the right place!
Janis
Lancaster, Ohio
Nick,
I love reading about your journey. You are only on this Earth one time and yours is truly a once in a life time adventure. Stay safe in Africa and the Middle East. Try to post as often as you can so we all know that you are OK.
Gina
Perkasie, PA
Nick – As one who has criss-crossed the US annually in my GMC YUkon for the last decade +, I am envious of your grand adventure. However, I am twice your age (+10) and must be content lesser goals. I wish you well on your continuing journey. Thank you for sharing it with those of us at home. Happy Trails,
Nick,
Your adventure is my escape from my cubicle. Hope alls well in Africa! Best of luck.
Katie
Richmond, VA
Nick,
Good luck in your adventures. Been enjoying your trip from the beginning.
Dawn
Crown Point, IN
Nick,
I am so glad your adventure is going well. I anxiously await each new post. You take amazing pictures and each week I usually make one of them my desktop background. It is my own secret way to live vicariously through you! Keep up your determination and patience, I am sure you will need both. Always know that we are all behind you cheering you on! Thanks for the inspiration!
Jaime
Nick- My kids and I have been following you since the beginning… we check the site every day and worry about you when you don’t post… there are so many of us living through you 🙂
Good luck in Africa!
Julie in Cave Creek Ariaona
Nick,
Last summer I quit my job and rode my bicycle from San Francisco to Washington DC with a group for charity, and I absolutely love traveling adventures. I’m back in the working world at a new job I don’t like, and your blog is definitely my escape! (I know that I’m echoing the sentiment of many others on here). I salute you for following through with your dream, as it’s possible with enough planning (and audacity) to take a leap down the road less traveled — many people were surprised I decided to make my cross-country trek last summer but now they me they’re jealous that I had the opportunity, and I tell them “anyone can do it!”
I know how annoying it may be sometimes to take the time to upload pictures and wrote posts for your blog when you’re busy doing so much else, so I thank you for keeping us all informed so we can live your experience vicariously.
Bonne chance avec ton voyage!
Adam
Washington DC (by way of Rhode Island)
Hello Nick:
All sounds good. Glad to know that you will be back on the road again with your Land Cruiser. We will be checking you out every mile on the way back to the USA. May you have a great week.
JoyMaria
Long time follower, first time poster. 😉 I have been following Nick’s blog since last November, a couple of days before he departed. Even contributed via the Pay Pal link, because I want to prolong the adventures vicariously as long as possible.
Keep on truckin’, Nick! If you think you can, YOU CAN!!
Suzanne
Atlanta, GA (formerly NYC)
Glad you got your truck back and will soon be ‘on the road again’! Travel safe and keep us posted on your progress.