Adventures through the mountains

In the Guatemala highlands
In the Guatemala highlands

In the morning, I got some work done on the truck, including new break pads, and got a new gasket for the exhaust oxygen sensor, which reduced the noise. The guys at Toyota don’t think much about the constant heat inside the truck, so we will try to not think about it. Since many days now, we roll with the hood open 3-inches, which keep the general temperature down. After all, it may not be abnormal for the truck to get warm, given the load we are carrying.
guatemala_woman After Huehuetenango, we took the mountains road in the northeast direction, to reach the highlands, where are probably the most desirable places to see in Guatemala. In general, in Central America, we will avoid overcrowded capitals, in an effort to avoid criminality, and also because it is more easy for us to set up a bush camp outside of populated areas.

Market in the mountain
Market in the mountain

Our first day in the mountains was fine, even if it gets more difficult for Nadia to eat what she wishes, since she is vegetarian. Most people can’t believe someone would not eat meat. Already Mexico was not a vegetarian paradise, but here it seems worst.
In the heart of the mountains, close to Rio Blanco, a family let us use their little piece of land to camp. A lot of people here have at least one family member working in the U.S., so I think they are happy to welcome someone coming from there.

mountain_road
Unpaved roads are getting more commun
Some roads are completely cut
Some roads are completely cut by rockslides
Market scene
Market scene

In the morning, we found a river where we could bath and clean up a little. Thanks god for that, after few days without a shower.
Then, as we were going deeper east, the road became unpaved, and more and more difficult. Often, our way was reduced to one lane because of rockslides due to rain. At one point, the road was even completely cut, but a deviation was in place, which saved us 10 hours of driving going back and taking another route.

After the accident, people don't complain, but just want their money back
After the accident, people don't complain, but just want their money back

People are driving fast here, including passenger buses, and in the afternoon, as we were on a paved road, and accident happened in front of us. A truck lost wood logs, causing a truck carrying beverage and a passenger buses to fly outside the road.

Nick and the bus passengers cleaning out broken glass
Nick and the bus passengers cleaning out broken glass

As we stopped, I ran back on the road to make signs for upcoming vehicles to slow down, and then, with other travelers, we cleaned up the pavement from broken glasses, and gas-propelled Pepsi bottles.
45 minutes later, and after loading the truck with a 12-pack of drinking water bottles (very desirable for us), we continued our drive in an increasingly dry environment. The landscape changed to cactus and scarcer vegetation, similar to south-Texas.
Before Chiquimula, another family let us sleep in front of their house.

On another note, people who want to contact nadia can do so at nadia2805 [AT] hotmail.com.
She will be glad to reply herself the marriage proposition I get in my mailbox now. Just in case I didn’t make it clear when I introduced her, she is a friend of mine from France, and we are not romantically tied. I will be glad to be the witness at her wedding as long as you are a decent guy.

Ciao Mexico

San Cristobal de Las Casas
San Cristobal de Las Casas

In the morning, we took showers, did some planning work, and updated the blog. We spent the afternoon visiting San Cristobal by foot, and I saw again the multiple religious monuments dispersed in the city, as well as the artisan and food markets.

San Cristobal cathedral
San Cristobal cathedral

San Cristobal is great, but you can feel that it is getting more popular, and you can’t help but notice kids from rich countries coming here to spend a sabbatical year to drink, smoke weed and wear Peruvian hats. But hey, San Cristobal is worth it, it is at least as nice as Oaxaca.
What really is amazing is to visit San Juan Chamula, few kilometers north east of the city.
We did that after a second night in the city, after finding a campground not far from the center.

San Juan de Chamula market
San Juan de Chamula market

San Juan Chamula is a village in the mountain, and we got there at 8 a.m. The church is very colorful and full of candles on the ground. This is a catholic church, but here, Mayan custom have been incorporated in the religion, making it seems far from anything one could have seen.
The floor is covered with pine needles, and Chamulan families lie down and drink Coca-Cola, and chant prayers.

san_juan_marketsan_juan_girlsan_juan_crossI wish I could have got some pictures, but it was strictly forbidden to shoot in the church.
The market is also great and cheap if you are looking for artisanal clothing. Most people from Chamula wear clothes made of hand crafted black wool.
After the visit, we were back on the road and took the direction of Guatemala. After a quick stop for lunch at Frontera Comalpa, we got a last fill up of clean gas, and we went to cross the border. Some traveler described the Guatemala border as the most difficult in Central America.

Nadia using her charms to help us through the border
Nadia using her charms to help us through the border

It took us just an hour to get everything done. Three kilometers before, we stopped to cancel the Mexican temporary vehicle importation. Then, the agriculture service cleaned the vehicle to avoid importation of insects or animal diseases, which cost us US$2. Then, immigration (free), and temporary importation of the truck (US$4). This is all really cheap compared to Mexico. I didn’t see any place where I could purchase insurance, so I kept going.

Our campsite
Our campsite

When you enter the country through this rather informal border, you are in the middle of the mountains, and you drive along a river. After 50 kilometers, as we were getting closer to Huehuetenango, we decided to leave the main road and enter a dirt road toward the river. There, we opened the tent, ate, and went to bed, at 7:30.

Leaving in the morning
Leaving in the morning