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ABOUT THIS BLOG

In the summer of 2009, Nicolas Rapp decided to take a break from his Art Director job at The Associated Press to attempt a one-year overland travel around the world in a 1996 Toyota Land Cruiser. He was back in New York in February 2011 after traveling 15 months and 37,000 miles.

Visited countries

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MONTHLY ARCHIVES

THE ROUTE

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  • Trans World not at its best, but on the move

    Posted on December 27th, 2009 Nicolas No comments
    Agua Azul Sierra

    Agua Azul Sierra

    The infamous axle housing

    The infamous axle housing

    Here is an overdue account of the last few days. As you know, I was looking everywhere for this damn part, a front axle housing I bended in a mountain accident.

    After many days looking around, it became clear the part was not available in any junkyard and I grew worry I would have to finish my life in Honduras. Finally, we decided to try what many told us was not possible. Find a machine shop where they could heat the housing and make an attempt to bend it back to its original shape.

    Raoul buys coco breads

    Raoul buys coco breads

    Raoul, Antonio’s friend hooked us up with a local guy who did it for US$50. The result was not perfect, and once the axle was put back in place, it appeared that the car was still lower on the passenger side. Also, the transmission was doing noises nobody wants to hear except in horror movies.

    With indications from Gabe (U.S. IH8MUD), we disconnected the front propeller shaft, which stopped the noises. But it means that we are now rolling in 2WD instead of 4WD. Which matched his reinsuring description of losing two of the four engines on a plane.

    Many bridges have been damaged during the earthquake

    Many bridges have been damaged during the earthquake

    Regardless, we had no other choices, and with Christmas celebrations, it was not looking good for us to get any help, or parts. Our goal was to be able to drive and reach Nicaragua, where the piece – according to Honduras sources – should be easier to locate. Plan B, if we can’t find the part, is to drive down to Costa Rica, and either find the part, or have it sent down from the U.S. Thanks to many friends I have been emailing back and forth, if we choose this option, we could have the part in 10 days maximum. Some people also offered their help for the mechanical part in Costa Rica.

    So on the 25th at 8 a.m., we were back on the road. We can’t thank enough Antonio and Thelma, who had us for ten days, and feeding us local food every day.

    At 3:30 p.m., after crossing the mountains surrounding Tegucigalpa, the country capital, we arrived at the Nicaragua border. Roads and bridges in Honduras suffered a lot from the recent earthquake, and I was looking forward to the more recent Nicaragua infrastructure.

    Customs officers are not joking when looking for drug

    Customs officers are not joking when looking for drug

    The Las Manos border was definitely the easiest one we had to cross. We were done in 40 minutes. Pretty cheap as well, we only had to pay US$3 to exit Honduras, US$7 to enter Nicaragua, no cost for bringing the vehicle, a mandatory $12 insurance (like always, liability only), and a Marlboro light for the guy to open the gate.

    An hour later, being back to sea level, we asked a small hospital funded by USAID if they minded us camping in the courtyard. They didn’t.

    Night falling on Nicaragua

    Night falling on Nicaragua

    I felt relieved we were able to let Honduras behind. Not being able to make any progress in the last week has been frustrating, and I needed something to happen.

    The following day, we continued south, but slower. It was Saturday after Christmas, and we knew it was meaningless to arrive in the capital before Monday.

    Coffee plants

    Coffee plants

    Drying beans

    Drying beans

    We did some grocery shopping, visited a coffee plantation close to Matagalpa (Selva Negra, which I don’t especially recommend, since they apparently benefited a lot of guidebooks recommendations, and felt more like a touristic destination than a real coffee plantation.

    Typical Nicaragua landscape

    Typical Nicaragua landscape

    Around 5 p.m., as we got closer to the Managua Lagoon and past Las Maderas, we asked a farmer to camp on his property. We were now at less than an hour from Managua, and I was growing more optimistic.

    The farm we slept at, an hour from Managua

    The farm we slept at, an hour from Managua

  • Few days back, crossing the Honduras border

    Posted on December 15th, 2009 Nicolas No comments
    Another informal border

    Another informal border

    As promised, here is an account of the few days before our small incident. We are now in Las Minas, Honduras, at a friend house, thanks to my brother Sergio from New York. We were able to find a mechanic in San Pedro who is taking care of the car, and who seemed optimistic when we delivered it. Now, we can just wait and wait for his word.

    Our new family in Guatemala

    Our new family in Guatemala

    So back a little bit, after a last night in Guatemala, where a nice family let us sleep in front of their house, we woke up early morning, and took the direction of the Honduras border crossing.
    Armed guards are everywhere in Honduras

    Armed guards are everywhere in Honduras

    We were there few hours later, and it took us two hours and US$ 40 to do the immigration process and the temporary import of the vehicle. We were excited to let one more country behind, and at the prospect of a country where gasoline would be cheaper than Guatemala.
    The Copan Ruinas market

    The Copan Ruinas market

    Few minute after the border lays Copan, the country most amazing Maya archeological site, as well as the cute town of Copan Ruinas. After visiting the town, we decided to wait for the following day to visit the ruins, and went to find a place we could camp and cook diner.
    Cooking tortillas the old way, in the ashes

    Cooking tortillas the old way, in the ashes

    The rancher's family

    The rancher's family

    The Copan ruins

    The Copan ruins

    Going up in the mountain, we found a farm, and asked the owner for a refuge. He did not only let us camp, but also invited us to the family table, teaching us about traditional food from his country. After saying good-bye, we went down to the ruins in the morning. The site is the most significant in Honduras, and marks the most southern point of the Maya dominance. The northern border of influence being the ruins of Palenque, one of our previous stop.
    ruinas2
    When the ruins were first examined, in 1839, they were under heavy vegetation. And still today, major discoveries are being done. It takes four hours to visit the site, and there is also a museum and some tunnels we skipped.
    Copan with the mountains in the background

    Copan with the mountains in the background

    Also of interest, a 45 minutes path in the jungle where if you are lucky, you can catch a glimpse of the local animals. Bring insect repellent, unlike us.

    There are still many years of work ahead

    There are still many years of work ahead

    I should be able to give an update tomorrow on our situation, and give more details on what happened in the infamous mountains.