We woke up in the old city on Wednesday morning. The vehicles were not supposed to be here before Friday, which was perfect, given that there was a lot to see around. The first thing we did was to move to a cheaper hotel, located in the center of the city. We settled on the Centenario hotel (not in the guides, but recommended, US$30 a night). The place is located in the old Getsemani district, outside of the walls of El Centro.
El Centro, inside the walls
The climate was pretty hot, with 31 degrees C during daytime (88 deg. F), but a nice breeze was blowing every night, which is the best time to walk around.
Waiting for the boat to unload the containers
It took all day Friday and Saturday to get all the paperwork done, and as usual, the temperature was not making things easier. Finding someone who could unload the containers and then a customs officer in the port can be time consuming.
Street, inside the walls
Employees of the port were nice and helpful, served us coffee, and indulged our presence during these two long days. At the end, the unloading fees amounted to app. US$ 300, which bring the shipping cost around the Darien to US$1,250.
Cartagena, outside the walls
Since we had some guaranty money to get back on Monday, we stayed in Cartagena through the week end, and just walked up and down the cobbled streets of El Centro, where the upper classes lived in the past, and probably still live.
San Pedro Claver Covent
There, we visited the San Pedro Claver Covent. San Pedro, a Jesuit monk also called the ‘Apostle of the Blacks’ spent his life ministering to the slaves brought from Africa. The building was charming, and there are some interesting paintings (portraits) as well.
The Naval Museum
The Naval Museum also merits a visit, with captioned models of pirate attacks from the 16th century. Building equally interesting. The Gold Museum is free, and you should go if you like jewelry. I was more curious about the archeological side, and liked the explanation about agricultural methods used in the country.
Model at the Gold Museum
At the end of the day Saturday, when we got our trucks back, we moved to Boca Grande, another Cartagena district along the beach. There, we paid US$5 a night to camp in a parking lot, across the street from the sea.
The walls of Cartagena
On Sunday night, I met with Frank, whom’s brother Alberto helped in the past with parts and shipping quotes.
Old Cartagena at night... in the daytimeOne of the fort in Cartagena outskirt
Frank spent two hours pointing out roads I should take to reach Bogota. Good guidance helps in Colombia, for safety and also to save money, as toll roads are everywhere, and those are not cheap. Gas is also a bit more expensive than in the U.S., at US$ 3.10 a gallon. In Panama, gas prices were similar to the U.S.
Eventually, on Monday we resumed our travel, and took the Southeast road to Bogota. Colombia is a big country compared to all the small ones we crossed in Central America, and we are probably here for more than a week. It should take us 3 days to get to the capital in the mountains.
On Sunday we visited the Miraflores locks on the Panama Canal.
Early on Monday morning, we met with the other parties, all French travelers, and we booked two containers and a flat-track to transport the four vehicles. Sharing a 40-feet container with another vehicle, I had to pay US$950, not including fees on the Colombian side.
All day Monday was busy running from one police station to the other, filling tons of meaningless papers, always looking for the next stamp. First we needed the inspection of the vehicle, when the police check the truck serial number. Then we had to go to another place where they check that you didn’t get a ticket while in Panama. They then give you an exit authorization. We had to go back to the shipping agent to pay and get the Bill of Lading.
The day after, we left the city at sunrise with only one driver per vehicle, since only one person can enter the port with each shipment. It took us one hour to reach Colon, on the Caribbean coast. We stopped shortly before the city to wash the car, as the port authority can have you pay US$100 to clean the vehicle if they judge it too dirty to enter their rusty containers.
All the first part of the day went running from the custom offices to the shipping agent, to inspections, to get port entry passes (US$5), and to have drug searches done on the trucks.
At last, around 2 p.m., the port employees guided us to our containers. My vehicle, the smallest of all was able to enter without problem in the 2.6-meter-high box. We un-mounted a roof-tent from the other vehicle we stuffed in the same container, and also had to let the air out of the tires so it would fit.
In another container, we stuffed without problem a big Dodge truck, but had to force a bit to get the U-Haul trailer in.
Another camping car found its place on the flat track.
At 3:30 we were out of the harbor and dirty like dogs. We shared a car to the airport where employees would soon understand how bums from the road look like.
It was very disappointing to fly above the Darien Gap at night and I will always regret I didn’t see this mysterious place. I bet that in a decade there will be a road there, changing the fragile equilibrium between the jungle and its inhabitants.
Nadia flew earlier in the day in another plane to get hotel rooms in Cartagena with other people of the gang ($30 and less for a room). Around 11 p.m. we met her in the city after a 1-hour flight (US$240, could cost $180 in advance, but you need to have your Bill of Lading in hand before you buy your ticket).
Two hours and few beers later, we were in bed, exhausted.
NOTES:
Shipping between Colombia and Panama can cost $750 to $1400 for a big SUV. You can use Ro-Ro (roll-in roll-out boats, a bit like ferries) or containers. There is no ferry service. The most common route is Cartagena-Colon. It takes 2 days to do the paperwork before departure, two days at arrival, and 1-2 days transit time.
Another solution I found out too late is that there is a possibility to use banana boats to go from Colombia to Costa Rica (skipping panama). It is also possible to ship from Ecuador to Costa Rica. There are at least a weekly departure for cars between Panama and Colombia with the two most used shipping companies, which are Wilhelmsen and Seaboard. Both companies are similar in prices. All depend of if you ship alone, share containers, and how many containers you will book. You can ask quotes to Vanessa de Gracia
(vdegracia [AT] seaboardmarinepanama.com) from Seaboard and Evelyn Batista from Wilhelmsen (Company used to be call Barwil) (evelyn.batista [AT] wilhelmsen.com).
For the banana boat, ask a quote and a list of destinations to Alicia from the famous Chiquita company (alromero [AT] chiquita.com). Use the Banana boat only if it is way cheaper.
Entering the container on the Colon harbor
Along with a group of other people shipping trucks, we were able to find a container boat leaving Colon, Panama on Wednesday. We went with Wilhelmsen (http://www.wilhelmsen.com), a worldwide company. If you are interested in shipping your car, there is a note at the end of this entry giving contact information.
Miraflores locks on the Panama Canal
On Sunday we visited the Miraflores locks on the Panama Canal.
Early on Monday morning, we met with the other parties, all French travelers, and we booked two containers and a flat-track to transport the four vehicles. Sharing a 40-feet container with another vehicle, I had to pay US$950, not including fees on the Colombian side.
Waiting for the police officers to finish lunch
All day Monday was busy running from one police station to the other, filling tons of meaningless papers, always looking for the next stamp. First we needed the inspection of the vehicle, when the police check the truck serial number. Then we had to go to another place where they check that you didn’t get a ticket while in Panama. They then give you an exit authorization. We had to go back to the shipping agent to pay and get the Bill of Lading.
Old streets of Panama City
The day after, we left the city at sunrise with only one driver per vehicle, since only one person can enter the port with each shipment. It took us one hour to reach Colon, on the Caribbean coast. We stopped shortly before the city to wash the car, as the port authority can have you pay US$100 to clean the vehicle if they judge it too dirty to enter their rusty containers.
At the custom office, trying to communicate
All the first part of the day went running from the custom offices to the shipping agent, to inspections, to get port entry passes (US$5), and to have drug searches done on the trucks.
Going in
At last, around 2 p.m., the port employees guided us to our containers. My vehicle, the smallest of all was able to enter without problem in the 2.6-meter-high box. We un-mounted a roof-tent from the other vehicle we stuffed in the same container, and also had to let the air out of the tires so it would fit.
Not much space inside the container
In another container, we stuffed without problem a big Dodge truck, but had to force a bit to get the U-Haul trailer in.
Another camping car found its place on the flat track.
Getting ready to close the containers
At 3:30 we were out of the harbor and dirty like dogs. We shared a car to the airport where employees would soon understand how bums from the road look like.
Cutoms employee closes the boxes
It was very disappointing to fly above the Darien Gap at night and I will always regret I didn’t see this mysterious place. I bet that in a decade there will be a road there, changing the fragile equilibrium between the jungle and its inhabitants.
Nadia flew earlier in the day in another plane to get hotel rooms in Cartagena with other people of the gang ($30 and less for a room). Around 11 p.m. we met her in the city after a 1-hour flight (US$240, could cost $180 in advance, but you need to have your Bill of Lading in hand before you buy your ticket).
Panama City airport
Two hours and few beers later, we were in bed, exhausted.
Appologies to all for the delay posting this entry, but it seems that in Colombia, access to my blog is blocked by a government program of internet censorship. It may be a problem until I leave the country.
NOTES:
Shipping between Colombia and Panama can cost $750 to $1400 for a SUV. You can use Ro-Ro (roll-in roll-out boats, a bit like ferries) or containers. There is no ferry service. The most common route is Cartagena-Colon. It takes 2 days to do the paperwork before departure, two days at arrival, and 1-2 days transit time.Another solution I found out too late is that there is a possibility to use banana boats to go from Colombia to Costa Rica (skipping panama). It is also possible to ship from Ecuador to Costa Rica. There are at least a weekly departure for cars between Panama and Colombia with the two most used shipping companies, which are Wilhelmsen and Seaboard. Both companies are similar in prices. All depend of if you ship alone, share containers, and how many containers you will book. You can ask quotes to Vanessa de Gracia (vdegracia [AT] seaboardmarinepanama.com) from Seaboard and Evelyn Batista from Wilhelmsen (Company used to be call Barwil) (evelyn.batista [AT] wilhelmsen.com).
For the banana boat, ask a quote and a list of destinations to Alicia from the famous Chiquita company (alromero [AT] chiquita.com). Use the Banana boat only if it is way cheaper.
The Gold Museum is free, and you should go if you like jewelry. I was more curious about the archeological side, and liked the explanation about agricultural methods used in the country.
