Vegas on steroids

The Burj Dubai, tallest building in the world.
The Burj Dubai, tallest building in the world.
Welcome to the Emirates.
Welcome to the Emirates.

It took me few hours to leave Oman and reach the United Arab Emirates. The border was easy, and the customs and immigration didn’t cost me a dime. After more driving, I reach Abu Dhabi, my first destination in the country. It is a big change to be here compared to Muscat.

Sheikh Zayed Mosque, the largest mosque in the United Arab Emirates.
Sheikh Zayed Mosque, the largest mosque in the United Arab Emirates.

The city is huge and very modern. I didn’t see skyscrapers in a while, and it would be easy to think I am back in the U.S. There’s also the incredible Zayed Mosque, which they just finished.
I drive around the city for a little bit and find a construction site on one of these pieces of land reclaimed to the water. I decide to camp there, since it’s already close to midnight. It is still very hot, and it’s not very easy to sleep.

Who says you can't camp in Abu Dhabi?
Who says you can't camp in Abu Dhabi?

The following morning I get to the Pakistani embassy as soon as I wake up. After few hours there, I am left with very little hope. I was able to see the consular officer, and he agreed to send my request to Karachi, but thinks there are very few chances for me to get the visa. Later, I stop at the newspaper to have lunch with a friend from the U.S. and at 3 p.m. I am driving toward Dubai.

Abu Dhabi at night.
Abu Dhabi at night.

It’s a short distance, two hours of driving and I see the first skyscrapers of the city. Dubai is even more impressing than Abu Dhabi. Everything here is huge and the city is difficult to navigate. Few days later, I am able to download some maps for my GPS. But the cities changes everyday and the GPS can’t keep up.

Driving in Dubai.
Driving in Dubai.

For a week I will stay with some friends from the Americas, Guillermo and Luis, who work at Gulf News, an English-language newspaper.
There are a lot of places to go at night and have drinks, and I find myself going out every night with them. Bars are usually in hotels, sometimes in malls. During the day, I do some shopping to replace the items damaged during the trip. Food is great also, with a lot of options including Afghan, Chinese, Filipino and Indian food. Money is spent fast here.

The Burj Al Arab.
The Burj Al Arab.

I get a small point-and-shoot camera which will make it easier to take pictures in cities or places where a big camera attract too much attention. I also get a laptop, a small Vaio netbook, a lot smaller than the one I previously had. I was under the impression that electronic items would be cheap in Dubai, but prices are a bit higher than in the U.S. On the other hand, I try to find a deep-cycle battery to replace my old one without success.
I also take advantage of the internet connection at my friend’s house, and research what will be the next steps of my trip. Unfortunately, I can’t say it is looking good.
map_iranThe Pakistan option looks like it is a no-go. I believe there are no boats going directly from Iran to India. The border crossings between Georgia/Russia and Azerbaijan/Russia are currently closed. I am now looking into going Turkmenistan-Kazakhstan-Russia. But I will need to get to Tehran to arrange these visas. I will also give another try to the Pakistan visa while I am there, but I think that will become the one visa I couldn’t get during the trip.
I spend time in the huge malls one can find everywhere in the city. No place I saw reminds me more of Las Vegas.
On Sunday I arrange the details for the ferry crossing to Iran. For around US$700 I will be able to sail with the truck from Dubai to Bandar Abbas overnight on Tuesday.

Ski and winter sports in the mall.
Ski and winter sports in the mall.

There’s no way of getting money from the outside once in the country, so I try to get the maximum of U.S. dollars and also get Iranian rials. The cash takes a lot of space, as one dollar equals 10,000 rials.
The loading of the truck will begin in few hours now, and I am on my way to the port.

In between modern and old world

The Muscat souk at night.
The Muscat souk.

In Muscat, I make myself at home at Antonio’s flat. It is the second time I take advantage of his hospitality. The first time was back in Honduras (see here what happened in Honduras), when I stayed at his home for two weeks, while trying to locate a part for the truck. As I was driving through South America and Africa, he decided to take a job in Dubai, and moved there four months ago. It took him one day to fly there, while I had to drive for 7 months to get to the same point. I share the apartment with him and three other expatriates, all working at the newspaper “The Times of Muscat”.

Antonio in old Muscat.
Antonio in old Muscat.
The Sultan.
The Sultan.

The country is ruled by the Sultan Qaboos who seized power in a coup against his father in 1970. He is the prime minister and heads the foreign, finance and defense ministries of Oman. He decides everything in the country and is very popular despite the fact that there is no election.
The temperature is still very high here, and you can’t go out much during the day. But I have to take care of my visas, which I do as soon as I arrive in the city. I am able to obtain easily the Iran visa in three days. It has been more easy than I thought. A month ago, I used a travel agency (recommended, US$42) as a sponsor to get the authorization number from the government. Then I just had to drop my passport here and get it back few days later (US$60).
The India embassy asked for a week for the visa processing. So I just let my passport down there and begin to think that everything is going well.

Observation tower or spaceship?
Observation tower or spaceship?

While it is in the work, I stop by the Pakistan embassy to enquire about the visa process. Here, I am surprised to learn that they would not grant me any visa, and that I am supposed to apply in my home country.
I really can’t fly to France to get my visa, so I keep going every day to the embassy hoping to meet with the consul. After few days, they are tired to see me, and ask me to stop coming.
This new story seems to confirm a theory or more precisely a new physic law I started to identify in Africa. It is very simple and I chose to call it “The theory of global stickiness”. Basically the mathematic formula behind this great discovery is:
More you advance around the world, more the countries become sticky.
Sticky in the sense that it is harder and harder to go to the next country as I progress in my trip.

At the port.
At the port.

While I research a solution to this new problem, I see on internet discussion boards that people are having similar problems in the region. No way of getting the visa in Istanbul, Abu Dhabi, Dubai, Tehran, New Delhi. Great.

Regardless, I send emails to people in New York, Pakistan, Canada, Mexico, Iran, India and France, and as you are reading this post, many people are working on the issue and trying to push on different fronts in an effort to get me the visa.

Small fishing harbor close to the old city.
Small fishing harbor close to the old city.

It is a very annoying problem, because Pakistan is the only way to Asia. Afghanistan, just north, is not easy right now, and even if I could go through, I would still have to cross a part of China to access India. And crossing China is very costly and a paperwork nightmare. I could try to ship from Iran to India, but it would be costly as well and I am not sure of the frequency of travels. In addition I will have to ship again from India to Asia, and I want to drive around the world, not SAIL…
I even looked into crossing Azerbaijan, Georgia and Russia to Vladivostok from where I could ship the truck to Korea. But that would mean bypassing India and part of Asia, which would be sad.

Oman Finance Ministry. Ruled by the Sultan.
Oman Finance Ministry. Ruled by the Sultan.

Anyway, it is too soon right now to know what direction I will be going, but I seriously hope I will get this damn visa.
When I am not working on this particular matter, I go out, mostly at night to enjoy more moderate temperatures, and visit the city. We go to the souk and the old Muscat, visit the beach, and even follow the example of locals and go to the mall.

Official visit to the Muscat mall.
Official visit to the Muscat mall.

Monday afternoon I picked up my India visa (US$48), and I will drive on Tuesday to Abu Dhabi or Dubai. This will be an intriguing visit, and I am excited about it. In parallel to the city visits, I will have to get ready to cross the Persian Gulf, this time by ferry boat. And of course, pay a courtesy visit to the Pakistan consulate.

The souk at night.
The souk at night.