Entering the Arab world by way of sea

An early attempt to load the truck. Only few hours later I will be able to get it done.
An early attempt to load the truck. Only few hours later I will be able to get it done.

I waited many days in Djibouti for my boat to depart. Everyday, I go to the port, and they tell me to come back the following day. First they can’t unload because of customs issues, then the captain is marrying is son and needs to buy some present.
Finally, on Wednesday July 8th, I show up at the port at 9 a.m., in order to load the truck. It’s a mess there, and nobody knows what they are doing. Everything in Djibouti works with bribes, and you can hardly get anything done without giving right and left. My last expense is at 10 p.m. the same day, when I have to give 70 dollars to borrow the right equipment to put the truck on the boat, as all the attempts with the available tools had failed. The guys damaged the truck as well, but it is just cosmetic, and nothing vital is altered. I could not believe the size of the boat when I saw it. It looked pretty small to cross the Red Sea. Dave, who comes at night to the port to say good-bye, is also surprised, and I can see in his eyes he thinks it may be the last time he see me.

17 hours on a small boat is no fun, especially when temperatures are so high.
17 hours on a small boat is no fun, especially when temperatures are so high.

At 11 p.m., we leave the port for a trip that will last for 17 hours. The boat is very slow and the weather hot, as usual. The Yemenite staff on board cooks food once in a while. I sleep in my car and the sea is a little bit agitated.

The sailors also fix us lunch and breakfast.
The sailors also fix us lunch and breakfast.

Night is already here when we arrive in Yemen. It is anyway Friday, day off in Muslim countries, so there’s no hope to get anything done. In the port I meet the chief engineer of a big Syrian boat. He invites me for diner, and I am able to take a shower in his vessel.

Finally in Yemen, and alive.
Finally in Yemen, and alive.

I sleep on the roof of my car, and wake up when the sun rise. It is slightly colder here, in the Mokha port, than in Djibouti. I am invited for breakfast with sailors on the dock, and then, have breakfast on my boat. I spend the morning looking for the right crane attachment to lower my truck on the port, but can’t find it, and finally, my Syrian friend helps me build a bridge from the boat to the wharf, so I can drive out. Scary moment. The wood cries, but I am able to go out without damage. By safety, we also had a cord between my truck and another Land Cruiser, so he could help to drag me out in case of problem. As always, I have to distribute few dollars to the guys all around who helped transport the construction wood.

It took me a long time to access the Yemeni landscapes.
It took me a long time to access the Yemeni landscapes.

Later, I have lunch on the Syrian boat, then lunch at the customs office. Yemen is like that, you are constantly invited to eat, or have tea.
It takes me many hours to finish the paperwork, and I am finally out of the port by 5 p.m.
If anyone wants to attempt such crossing, there are some details at the end of this post.

Typical buildings in the mountains of Yemen.
Typical buildings in the mountains of Yemen.

As soon as I am out, I drive to Taizz, in the mountains. There, I hope to get temperatures more suited for humans. It seems that in Yemen camping is not well seen. And since it is my birthday, I decide to go to the hotel. It is clean here, and it cost me US$17 to spend the night. I take an elevator for the first time since South Africa to get to my room. Later I have kidney and eggs, a Yemenite fixture, with a Yemenite guy I met at the hotel. The road is pretty good, and I see beautiful houses that are here since hundred of years, a big difference with Africa.
In the morning, I begin to drive to Aden, 160 km (100 miles) from Taizz. There I go to the Oman consulate to make sure I will be able to enter by road from Yemen. They are very nice, and warn me of danger on the road going there. I promise I will be careful, and in the afternoon I begin to look for a hotel in the city.
The next few days, I will be driving the small road following the south coast of the country, until I enter Oman. In front of me, there are few thousand kilometers of very hot travel.

On the road between Taizz and Aden.
On the road between Taizz and Aden.

[NOTE FOR TRAVELERS]
To ship my vehicle to Mokha, I had to pay:
– Transport: US$380 (Including one passenger)
– Crane and operator, plus agent in Djibouti: US$200
– Bribe to get the right attachment in the middle of the night: US$75
– Agent in Mokha: US$20
– Helper in Mokha to build bridge: US$20
– Permit to exit port: US$14

Total: US$709

Phone number of Djibouti agent: 870 274

52 Replies to “Entering the Arab world by way of sea”

  1. Man…
    You were right about the look in my eyes at the port. I’m glad you made it to Yemen safely. Hope you didn’t get sea sick on the boat…I didn’t even think about that before you left.

    I take it there was no major damage to your truck…I’m glad you took the hotel room for your birthday. Hopefully it had a/c or that you didn’t need it being at a little higher elevation.

    As always, stay safe!

    Dave

  2. The pictures are amazing, I appreciate your blog so much. Getting to see parts of the world I wouldn’t even consider traveling to.

    Be safe and thank you for the update!

  3. Been checking your site more frequently, hope it all goes well. I would say stay safe but I know you value on your own life and are trying to be as safe as possible. You are much braver than I, don’t think I would be brave enough to go alone, willingly to the Middle East. May luck be with you!

  4. Wow. Glad you made it! Great blog, pictures, adventure! Hang in there! 🙂

  5. Wow you are doing great! The landscape in Yemen looks really old. Good luck. Randy

  6. I’ve been following your blog since South America. I will be praying for your safety as your drive across Yemen. I’m also praying God will provide good company for you. I would be so lonely if I were doing this. My husband and I look forward to your next blog.

  7. OMG – that boat is scary. I am glad you made it there safely. Can’t wait to see what awaits you in Asia.

  8. Good job Nic- you made it over and out of the water. A well written post as well, probably the best so far in terms of style. You sound like you’re starting to develop the 1000 mile stare.
    Go strong Nic and be well and be safe.

  9. Seeing your truck on that boat makes me worry even though I know you are off of it safe. Good to know the damage was just cosmetic…besides what good is a Land Cruiser without a few dents and dings right?

    I hope your drive to Oman is easy and without any major incidents.

    Still planning on meeting you out on the West Coast when you get back to the states!

    Take care friend.

  10. Sounded like quite the project to get this all done at the Port. ( I do longshore work in Seattle) Unload and load containers, break bulk, and cruis ships. I could see they really did’nt have much to work with. To do it right. ( flate rack ) then lift it. Well glade it worked out

  11. O better yet- for next time if you find one( and only the right style and kind) a sling net that lifts from the tires so you dont have to lift the body. That’s how we load or unload some huge tractors with rubber tires. Ever want some tips on this kind of stuff next email me.

  12. Hope you had a wonderful birthday and you are always in my prayers. What a wonderful time we had the time you visit Soweto. All the best in your journey.

  13. So far, so good – well done. And now on to the next phase of the adventure.

    I must say that I am very appreciative of the data and details you have posted throughout your excursion. While some who read your blog may live vicariously through your experiences, others, like me, have harbored a passion for RTW travel by vehicle. This information is not only informative and helpful, but quite eye-opening as well. Kudos!

    Randy

  14. Happy Birthday Nicolas! I hope it was a pleasant one. Still enjoying the posts of your adventures here and look forward to the ones coming up. The boat you were on to cross the Red Sea looked a little rickety so I am glad you made it to Yemen. Good luck with the upcoming part of your journey.

    Ryan

  15. Have been following your trip the whole way and love reading about it. Is it worth it so far?

  16. Nick,

    Glad you are safe and no serious damage to your Land Cruiser. God Bless we are with you every step of your journey!

    Take care!

  17. Your trip is getting pretty intense dude! I hope you stay safe and enjoy the scenery! Just try to get through Yemen as fast as you can to avoid any problems.

  18. Glad you made it Nick! After seeing pics of the boat I can say you are truely an adverturer in the first degree. I’m not sure I could have gotten on that thing to go accross a water mass as large as the Red Sea…. Whew!

    Hope things are much easier from here on for a while~

    Keep on Truck’in

    Perc.

  19. Hello Friends of Nick!

    Since Nick has followers from all over the world he has graciously given me permission to post the following:

    I’m in search for a couple of people and if you know them or recognize their names please, please get in touch with me or let them know to contact me @ cruzn_mr2@yahoo.com Roberta (Bobbie) Deanne “nee” Beck age 57 (born in Missouri) last known location in 1974 in Vancouver, Canada. Her mother Dorine (Dee) F. “nee” (Wood) Beck-Schramm age late 70’s, born in Canada and has lived in CA, MO, WA, USA. Also possibly a sister named Donalda (nee) Beck. I’m trying to contract them for medical and personal reasons.

    Sure wish it was to tell them they won a bunch of money, but that’s not the case. Also, I’m not the law looking for them!!

    Thanks for taking time to read my post to Nick’s blog!

    So happy to see you made the trip safely AGAIN! You’re a real trooper and resourceful. A few bribes along the way are probably the norm even in the states too!

    Nick, thank you for so much letting me post this!!! If you come through Nashville on your way home and you’ll get treated to good food, drinks and a soft bed!!

    Ms. Marti-Nashville, TN
    Forge on my friend!!!

  20. happy, happy birthday to you ! that boat trip seemed scary and such a long trip -17 hours !. be safe and careful – love your blogs, and check every day for a new one. peace and godspeed !

  21. I have been following you since you left the USA and I love reading about you, I check your site atleast 3 times a week to check for updates and when there are new updates I get all excited, You are so lucky to have this kind of oportunity and to have the Balls to do something this exciting, Good Luck to you and watch out for all the crazy Pirates everywhere.

    Always thinking of my trip through your travels.
    Maria,

  22. Nick,

    Glad to know you reached Yemen safe and sound. This is such an incredible adventure. Thanks for sharing your amazing journey with all of us. I have been reading your blog from day one and look forward to reading your latest post. Please stay safe and continue to post those fascinating pics and accompanying storyline.

    Thanks,
    Ravi.

  23. Nick,
    What a Birthday! Always love the photos and the blog. Be safe traveling through the next few countries.
    Linda

  24. Hi Nick,

    Your journey and blog are amazing. Thank you so much for sharing your adventure with us. I’ve been following your blog from the very beginning and am thrilled you are okay and have made it safely to Yemen. I hope your future travels are safe and that you continue to post your incredible stories.

    Take care!
    Melissa

  25. Glad the Cruiser got off the boat without a scratch and looking forward to reading more about the Yemeni landscape, food, and tea- take care!

    -Lucinda

    1. Hi all,
      Just a quick note to let you know I am out of Yemen and already in Oman. I got a military escort for 600 km going east, and finished the other 600 km alone. The key advice from officials was to go fast, and I did. I have to put some pictures together, and hope to update the blog soon. I am now in Salalah, and will go toward Oman.

  26. Kidneys and eggs Nick? Jeez you are more adventurous than I thought man. Looking forwar d to your next post, as always fantastic pictures. truck on buddy!

  27. It’s good to hear you made it through Yemen safely. We can’t wait to receive your next post. Continue to be safe and keep truckin’ on! 🙂

    Kara

  28. Looks like the travel gods have smiled on you with your safe passage to Oman! I’ve been wondering, has your stomach rebelled at all against the local foods and drinks you have been experiencing? Travel safe!

  29. Nick
    I have been following you from the beginning. Love your blog and you have inspired me to do a blog of my own. Next year my husband and I will be driving from Florida to Alaska (and home again) My thought is a blog is an excellent way for people to keep up with what we are doing. I love hearing about your travels but it is a little more daring and uncomfortable than I would want to do but you are a young daring guy so keep up the good work and good adventrues.
    Best wishes
    Jeannie

  30. Glad to hear you already made it to Oman! Can’t wait for the update 🙂 Stay safe and sound

  31. No kiddin on going fast! Your haulin!! Are you ahead or behind on your schedule? Will you be able to travel along the coast? Thanks for posting to let everyone know your still doing okay. Excited to see the next set of pics and read about the adventure. How wonderful that you had an escort part way!

    Forge on my friend!!

    Ms. Marti~Nashville, TN

  32. Nick,

    Wow, that was quick drive through Yemen! That is great advice from the officials and also from Edwin.

    I was looking at the road through Yemen close to the coast in Google Earth. Looks like roads are very well paved and very smooth. As I was following the roads, I noticed there were multiple breaks on the road on the horn of Yemen (if you call it that), east Yemen, 90 miles straight line distance from the border of Oman. But when I looked closely, it looks like they are tunnels under mountains. I estimated the tunnels to be a total of two miles long! Wow! Cool! I can’t wait for your next post to see the amazing pictures.

  33. Ms. Marti-Nashville,

    Hi there! Have you tried finding these people through facebook? I personally found long lost friends and family through facebook. I you can’t find them directly by entering their names, try to find a mutual friend or through a distant relative in facebook. They might be friends with the people you are looking for in facebook. Good Luck!

  34. Nick: the Yemenese definition of fast meant “pedal to the metal” right? Sounds pretty crazy to me!

    Good luck and hope you reach the UAE soon!

  35. Wow, that boat you put your truck on was just crazy. Thanks for continuing to share your adventure with us.

  36. Good to hear the military escorted you through half of the trip. Yemen is very dangerous because of the lack of government in some regions.

  37. Dear Nick:

    Well, welcome to Oman! I just love reading your messages noting dramatic send-offs to your destinations, i.e, that boat in Yemen; and the uneventful arrival to your destinations. Reading your messages is always like a breath of fresh air paired with a sigh of relief. I also love reading how good you are at taking advice from people such as the officials in your new territory. Thanks so much for keeping us informed and we look forward to the photos. Stay safe, focused and remain blessed.

    -joyMaria

  38. Okay, now that you’ve made it to Oman and soon you will be in Dubai I hope you can get yourself some Nando’s Peri Peri! hahaha…Enjoy your stay in Oman. Sounds pretty nice!

    Dave

  39. Marlon,
    I don’t have access to Face Book because they have it blocked at work. Although, several other individuals have looked there with no luck. It seems that Roberta (Beck) & Dorine (Beck)Wood-Shramm have vanished off of this earth. I so appreciate you responding to me, at least you read my post to Nick’s blog!! In the past I located someone that knew them, but still no luck!

    Nick, do you get excited about all the people that are keeping up with you? Keeping all of us up-to-date seems like a job in its self. Any prospects for someone to travel with you in the near future? You had said once that no one was too interested in traveling in Yemem or Oman with you.

    Ms. Marti~Nashville Forge on my friend!! Watch out for the thugs too!!!

  40. glad you added an update yesterday. must have been exciting to have a military escort!! I wish they’d stay with you til you got home. Looking forward to new pictures, and more updates. What a birthday memory, I wonder how you’ll celebrate next years’ , maybe with friends and a cake with lots of singing.. !! be safe !!

  41. As always…great pictures. As others said, the boat looks really scary. Have a safe trip to Oman. Looking forward to your next post.

    Vijay

  42. Nick,

    Thanks for the update that you made it safely thru Yemen. Looking to forward to more of your wonderful pictures and comments.

    Judy

  43. WOW, Sure happy you made it safe across the waters..
    The boat looked a little (iffy) ha ha,,
    Take care and GOD BLESS YOU on your journey..:)

  44. Have a safe trip Nick! I have been following your journey since you started in November. Thanks for keeping us up to date. I must say, you are very bold to take on such a journey.

    Good luck!

    Prashanth

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