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THE ROUTE
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Crossing Argentina, en route to Buenos Aires
Here's what I needed – Diner in Mendoza
Argentina was very different compared to the countries we have been crossing in the last months. Suddenly, we found ourselves back in a place that measures more with Europe or the United States than with its close neighbors.
After some interesting landscapes in the north, the desert will soon unroll its monotonous background
There, in rural area, bush camping is never a problem, roads are straight and in good shape, we were back in flat ground, close to see level, and food was abundant, diversified, and close to European standards.
Flat land in the north
Prices are higher than we are used too, notably gas, at US$3.6 a gallon. Most of the nights, we are opening our tent in gas station parkings, where it is always allowed to camp, and where you get showers (with hot water! I forgot it existed) and most of the time Internet access.
Yes we can – sleep anywhere
After we passed the border, we continued to drive south. We would first visit San Juan and Mendoza, the heart of the wine country, a thousand kilometers south of the Bolivian border. From there, we would go full east, and drive another thousand kilometers to Buenos Aires.
Buying fruits in San Juan
The roads are easy, the landscape around dry as a desert. One can drive there and not have to turn for 200 kilometers. The long drive was monotonous and we were counting miles between towns. For the first time since we left New York, I tried one of the recorded books I had on my iPod.
Driving across the vines, close to Mendoza, Argentina
In few words, the adventure – for now – was on hold. Nothing to worry about on the road. What a change after all these the last months. But I was doing my best to enjoy this quiet time before my next destination. Africa.
Nadia at a cafe in San Juan. Soon to go to Brazil
Nadia will spend few days in Buenos Aires with me, and will then take a flight to Brazil to spend a little bit of time there. Then she will go back to Paris where some work awaits her. It will be though to see her go, as she was a great travel companion in the four months it took us to go from New York City to Buenos Aires. But she is dreaming of the Brazilian beaches, and needs to make some cash for future adventures.
So good-bye Nadia, and don’t forget about the Trans World!
Park in Mendoza
These long roads let you a lot of time to think, so I take advantage of it to lay down what’s coming up for me (and you guys).
In few days, I will be in Buenos Aires. There, I will find an apartment to stay during the three weeks my truck will be sailing to South Africa. My parents will come visit me during this time, as I didn’t see them in a while. I will try to expedite first the shipping details for the vehicle, and I am still trying to lower the cost of this necessary step. So far, I received quotes of around US$2,500 not including port fees in Africa. The most likely destination is Durban.
The oldest market in Mendoza
Then, there will be an important change in my plans. The route I am following always have been changing, little by little, and – for example – I decided recently to skip Chile because of the problems the country is facing (February 27 earthquake). But this time, it will be a bigger change. I initially planned to follow the west coast of Africa, go north to Europe, and then east through the middle-east. I am now decided to try the eastern African route.
A new route (Google map)
Start from South Africa, and up through Mozambique, Tanzania, Kenya, Ethiopia and Sudan. From there, the plan is to ship the truck to Saudi Arabia, continue through Jordan, Syria and finally arrive in Turkey.
A break there should allow me to get a visa for Iran and India after which I will be back on the road. But this is far away, and there can, and probably will, be additional changes.
It is sad to skip Europe of course, especially for me, as there will not be a stop in France, my home country. But there are many difficulties on the west coast of Africa, and getting visas could become a headache. I would also save some precious money since gas prices are so high in Europe, and the shortcut I will be taking would probably save me a month of road. As always, you have to make some choices, and I will give this route a try.
Spending time in outside cafes is a must in Argentina
But back on our quiet adventures in Argentina. Eventually we made it first in San Juan, where we took care of laundry and spent time in outside cafes observing the population and walking in the small city, similar to a provincial town in France. People here take at least three-hours break in the middle of the day, and shops reopen around 4:30 p.m., so you have to plan your day according to this schedule.
The famous Argentinean grape
250 kilometers later, we were in Mendoza and walked across the city before trying a meat restaurant, called a “Parilla”. A Parilla is basically a barbecue, and is an essential part of the life in Argentina. Meat is served with no sides, except if you especially request it. Not a paradise for vegetarians to say the least.
If you happen to be around there, try Arturito, you will not regret it. (not in guidebooks, cheap, intersection Las Heras and Chile)
The Mendoza central –and oldest – market
The following day, we continued our exploration of the city after a noisy night in front of a gas station. We visited the central market, the oldest of the city. There we got meat and cheese for the days to come. Argentineans don’t have a great markets culture, and those are rather small, even in big cities. We walked around the town, and visited some of the many parks peppering the charming town.
The Familia Cecchin tasting room
Then we were off to visit a winery, and of course do some wine tasting. We chose to begin our visits by a medium-sized bodega, the Familia Cecchin. We tried to get them to let us sleep there, but with no success. This is always the problem with touristic area. People don’t understand why you want to sleep at their place for free when there is a camping not far from there!
Trying to find a nice place to sleep, as always
And at the end, we had to do like everybody in a civilized country, go to a camping. And down there, it was almost American prices at US$10.
A bigger and more industrial bodega, the Familia Zuccardi
But it was quieter than in the gas stations we slept at in the few last days. In the morning, we were well rested, and drove to one of the biggest winery around, the bodega Zuccardi, famous for their Santa Rosa wines.
Tasting wine, bodega Zuccard
We were back on the road. And this time, I drove east. From New York, I have been going south all the time. It is now time to go around the globe, if I want to be done with this trip before my fifties. Next stop, Buenos Aires!
En route to Buenos Aires
70 Responses to “Crossing Argentina, en route to Buenos Aires”
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alexis March 28th, 2010 at 7:54 am
hey Mister…
what a trip!!!…
as you said 15 years before, “one day i’ll built my own house by myself”… i can see that your house is in progress… all over the world… good job bro’… if one day you think about comin’ to Paris… let me know… faut qu’j’te cause!!!… 😉 -
Clilff Lewis March 28th, 2010 at 9:33 am
Hi, read your article in Wilmington, N.C. Interesting. I visited Copan and it is an incredible site. However, your article states it is in Guatemala. This is incorrect. The wonderful Mayan site of Copan is in Honduras.
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John Winter March 28th, 2010 at 9:42 am
Nicolas; In 1960, at the age of 21, I drove a 1956 ford pickup, with a home made camper from Wooster, Ohio, to Cusco Peru. Sold the truck on the square in Cusco for $1,000 and hitch hiked home, by way of LaPaz, then north. Was robbed 4 times, in central America. Enjoyed the market in Cusco. Hope you have as good a time as I did.
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Heya Nick,
I hope you are holding out allright there in BsAs withouth Nadia and with your parents.. Boy what a change! I looked at your proposed map, and I don´t know if your carnet allows for entry in Egypt, because that would be the most expesive part of the carnet. As far as crossing the red sea and entering Saudi Arabia, now that would be a thrill…. You will need preperation for that one. Sponsored visa well in advance…
“Entry Requirements for Saudi Arabia Holidays & Saudi Arabia Travel
All visitors require a visa to enter Saudi Arabia, and visas are only granted to those with sponsorship in the country. Tourist visas are granted only to selected groups on a limited basis. ”
Have fun..
Coen -
Oooopsss, forget. And defenitely don´t skip Iran!!! You will regret it. You might want to change your licence plate though… If you need contacts, just give me a shout… This goes for Pakistan as well…
Coen -
Harvey (Naples,FL) March 28th, 2010 at 11:55 am
Nicolas,
A short word about the a-hole who has been blogging your web site recently. Surely you and the majority of your readers and followers recognize that this is an open and public forum. Anyone… and I repeat… ANYONE can log and and make comments. We all know there are some strange and wasted folks out here who are wasteful in their very existence. Given this info… Why does everyone get excited when some a-hole logs on and spills their waste?
Advice… Just ignore them. PERIOD! They thrive off response. Ignore them and they’ll go away. Simply make believe they’re not there.
You’ve still got a long way to go and other wasteful souls will burden your blog. Please don’t give them the recognition they so desperately crave.
IGNORE… IGNORE… IGNORE ! Now… Back to the trip!
Cheers,
Harvey -
Thomas March 28th, 2010 at 9:01 pm
Looking forward to your next post Nick! I don’t know if you received by email buut Diyarbakir Turkey is a beautiful city to see. It is suirrounded by a wall that overlooks what is said to be the “Garden of Eden”. I was stationed about 45 minutes outside of the city while in U.S. Air Force. Stay safe!
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Nick, not sure you have much time to read a novel but if so, you would might like “Paddle to the Amazon. Dana and Don Starkell, father and son go from Canada to the Amazon in a canoe, granted it’s ia different adventure than yours but cool read. They did it many years ago. Good luck in Africa
Scott
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Fernando March 29th, 2010 at 9:52 am
Hello Nicolas !!
Congrats on your endeavour to cross the three Americas.
I was sent an article by a friend from Nova Scotia on your trip.
It caught my interest , truly and profoundly. I will explain why.
Back in 1959 , my mom and dad and five kids , I was then 8 yrs old, set off on an adventure that would take us from Montevideo , Uruguay to Montreal , Canada. Similar routes but the other way around from what you’re doing. It took us approx 2 years to reach our goal. We had a chevrolet panel truck 1952 and the poor thing went through hell on those famous south american roads , the well known Pan American , and others which I presume you might have encountered. Many , many things happened on this trip , needed sponsoring as we went along , dispair from many unwanted situations , death of a brother in Argentina , marriage of another brother in Argentina , a birth in Costa Rica ( my bros wedding in Salta added an extra person ) , and on on went the odyssey. Unfortunately back in the 60’s communication was not what it is today. Along the cities we rode through my dad went to local newspapers and had articles written up on this adventure crossing the three americas. I have been the lucky one to be in possesion of all this treasure my parents built up. I call it treasure cause being 8 years of age and today being 60 , this has made me grow up and today is overflowing in my mind. Newspaper clippings from Uruguay to Canada is what I possess today with great pride. Log books of every soul that sponsored us thru nagging and hard work to reach our goal. My friends aware of this trip is how your article came to my eyes. Stunned and amazingly surprised I decided to write on your blog. You may wonder why it took nearly 2 years ? A man and a woman dragging five kids was an exceptional feat in those years. Why my dad picked up this crazy idea is a mystery to me , he had quite an ego to accomplish this and put his family thru many moments of danger and dispair. Luckily enough we made it to Montreal where we settled after a hardship fight with Immigration to remain in this country. Neglectful side of society of this accomplishment in those years , they fought to get immigrant status after 2 years of our arrival. Well Nicolas , I thought I would let you know my (blog ) in my own words , I am not much of a writer but I do keep the adventurous genes my parents left me as a legacy. Great to see there are others with such genes. Keep going , don’t give up and woul love to hear from you if ever you get this. In the meantime , take care , best regards….Fernando Bravo-Ferrer -
Ms. Marti-Nashville March 29th, 2010 at 1:03 pm
Hi Nick, Your blog sure is getting to be a busy place these days! Have you been able to make arrangements for your vehicle? How about posting some pics from Buenos Aires? I enjoyed reading your explanations of the cost for your trip. Being cheap or frugal person is why you are able to do your thing now. Great!! How is your budget doing with the car? I know you took a beating back in Mexico. The ole friend is getting a well deserved rest and he will reward you for that later!
Forge on………………..
Ms. Marti -
Christin March 29th, 2010 at 1:20 pm
Nick,
I think you and your blog are brilliant! I’ve been following you since your MSN article back in October. I look forward to hearing more about your adventures, and I hope you plan on publishing a book! Best of luck on your continued journey.
Christin
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WOW! I found your blog a few weeks ago and I am truly amazed by your adventure. Your friend Nadia wil be missed, not just by you but by your audience, too.
Keep up the good work and I will keep you and your travels in my prayers.
Best Wishes!!
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Nicolas March 29th, 2010 at 7:46 pm
Hi all,
Sorry for the long time between postings. I have been busy finding a boat to go to Africa, housing, paperwork, my parents, taxes to fill, etc…But everything is well, and i want to do a post soon. My truck is sailling on the 6th of april, and should arrive on the 26th. I have a flight ticket to go to Johannesburg on the 14th.
Anyhow, can’t wait to be down there driving!Coen, I believe there is a way to get a three-days visa transit to allow you to cross Saudi Arabia. Also looking into options through Yemen and Oman, and then boat to Iran.
Thanks for your patience!
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Rob Mittler March 29th, 2010 at 9:21 pm
Nick where are you????? We sure are missing you. Hope everything is ok. 😛
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Dear Traveller
come to Nepal and let me know what i needs to do for youRaj
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Joanne in New Jersey March 30th, 2010 at 6:23 am
Thanks for checking in, was worried about you! I have been following from the beginning. Hope you plan to write a book on this experience.
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Denise March 30th, 2010 at 7:10 am
Hi Nick!
Good Luck in your travels! You are doing what so many dream of. Enjoy your time with your Parents. I can’t wait for your posting when you travel through Africa. Please do be careful. As for DogLeg….he should have read your home page and researched a little more about the Donate Button.
I am thankful you are okay and pray for your saftey as you travel through the Middle East. Happy Easter!
I hope one day you do write a book about your adventures! God Speed. -
Kara M. in KY March 30th, 2010 at 4:19 pm
It’s been 11 day since the last post and I think I’m starting to have withdrawl symptoms. I have to check my computer every morning to see if the blog has been updated. I was sorry to hear Nadia would be leaving the adventure. Hopefully she will be able to rejoin soon. We will miss her. In the mean time, best wishes Nick! Your fan club will be patiently waiting.
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Lupster March 30th, 2010 at 6:24 pm
Nick,
I have been missing you! I can only imagine how busy you might be trying to get your truck, paperwork all in order to have it cross overseas. As you can see I am going through withdrawl. I am so hooked on your web since day one back in Sept. 09. I hope to see your new posts soon.
I also wanted to take the time to say it is my honor to contribute to your travels — I too have travel on my own expensive but have never done anything as exciting as you are doing now. For that its with great pleasure I have contributed $$ to your adventure. I truly appreciate you taking the time to personally email and gratiously thank me for my donation. (quick comment to Doglegg, Mr. Rapp has been very thanked me and i am sure to others for their donation(s), whether you feel Nick is begging or coming off as a panhandler is your opinion entirely but as to him being rude is totally far from the truth).
Again, Nick be safe and may God be with you every step of the way. Come home safely hope to see you in California!
Lupster
