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THE ROUTE
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Discovering the African wildlife
A monkey steals my breakfast muffin in the Saint Lucia Wetland Park
While I wait for the boat to be allowed in the Durban port, I move in a cheaper backpacker, the Banana Hostel (US$13 a night in dormitory), located in the city center. Cockroaches are the primary guests, but there are also some other human inhabitants. Among them Colin, a white South African working in the import and export of copper and gold. We soon become friends. He got lucky with his gold mine in Zambia, sold the precious metal to Dubai, and is now waiting for his cash in Durban.
Saying good-bye to Colin as I leave Durban
The city has nothing great to take advantage of. The market is interesting, but really nothing compared to the America ones. I know, more you travel, more difficult you are to please. We become friend and wait for days to go by together, drinking beers and taking care of our daily tasks, which is for me going to my clearing agent.
The boat arrives on Saturday, May 1st. I have to wait for Monday to get it out, since customs doesn’t work on weekends. On Monday afternoon, I am finally able to get it out, after a day of running back and forth between the clearing agent, Hamburg Sud and the warehouse. US$1,360 later, I am good to go, and with Colin, I drive to a shop specialized in exhaust pipes. The following morning, they take out my catalytic converter, and replace it by a straight pipe. This will allow me to run on the low quality petrol I will find in Africa. I go to a hardware store, and buy an 11-gallon (40 liters) water tank. Until now, I was using a 7 gallons jerry can, but I suspect water points will be harder to find, so I prefer to go with more reserves. Beside, the jerry can leaked more and more as I was going through the Americas, and getting a new system was overdue.
The Durban soccer stadium, ready for the World Cup
Next stop before I go is to get a minor radiator leak fixed. I want some peace on the road, and will do everything to avoid mechanical troubles. My oil pressure indicator still reads low, so I get it checked by an electrician who tells me the indicator is dead, and oil pressure is OK. This is one less thing to worry about.
By then, it is Wednesday morning, and time for me to leave Durban.
Arriving in St Lucia in the afternoon
I go northeast, following the coast, and 260 km later (160 mi) I arrive in St. Lucia where I pay the dues to enter the St. Lucia Wetland Park (US$ 11).
On the dirt roads of the park. Finally Africa.
There I see my first animals, including hippos and rhinoceros within minutes of entering the park, at around 4 p.m. You spot animals more in the early morning, and before sunset, when the heat of the day is less intense. Night falls early in South Africa, and I am glad to resume my camping routine. I check in a campground close to the beach (US$11 a night).
The Indian Ocean beach. Nobody to be seen around.
I bought plenty of food in the town of St. Lucia and I have a nice South African wine to celebrate my first night in the wild. I take my first malaria pill (Malarone), and fall asleep to the sound of the waves.
When I wake up, I go for a walk on the beach. The sun is already hot.
A funny monkey thinks he can get away with my dish soap.
I get some early action, as I am eating breakfast, and some monkeys have some fun on me. They first steal my muffin as I fix coffee, and then take away the dish soap. I have no other, so I chase him until he gives it back to me.
A rhinoceros ignore me as I drive by.
I spend the day re-organizing the content of the truck, and go take a first bath in the Indian Ocean. Lots of waves and warm water seem to characterize the location. Before night falls, I go for another drive in the park, and enjoy a nice sunset, as well as more animal sights.
A hippopotamus in the river.
I get back to the campsite in the darkness, and put my alarm clock for 5:30 a.m. in the morning, to make sure I will get a glimpse at more wildlife as I leave the park. Later, I will go north in direction of the Kruger Park, marking the border of South Africa and Mozambique.
Animals can be seen everywhere.
Despite what people told me, I would never have think I could see so much in such a short period of time. This is Africa.
Sunset on the park.
34 Responses to “Discovering the African wildlife”
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Good to see you back Nick,
You can imagine how worried a lot of us have been. But like you, we too have to be patient.
The count doesn’t look like it was valid. There must be another way to know how many followers you have. Collectively we’ll think of something before this is over. That sounds scary, “over”, I don’t want this to end. So Nick, can you just keep going around and around the world to pacify our needs?
Good luck through Africa!
Manolo
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azreial May 8th, 2010 at 8:40 am
oh wow stunning pictures.
I have enjoyed following your journey. Hopefully we’ll get more posts now that you’re on your way again -
Rhiannon Roberts May 8th, 2010 at 8:42 am
I am so excitied to see that you’re back on the road. I can’t get over how amazing it all is. I am so happy to read about your adventures once again. Have an amazing time Nicolas.
Enjoy. Stay Safe and Smile!!! -
DrJoyMaria May 8th, 2010 at 9:38 am
Yes, TIA. Just lovely. Many smiles and grins here just remembering the warm Indian ocean and wonderous discoveries. Enjoy! 🙂
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Sandy May 8th, 2010 at 9:56 am
Amazing pictures! Good to know you are back on the road. Looking forward to this leg of your (our) adventure!
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Mo in Florida May 8th, 2010 at 10:16 am
Fabulous pictures! Had to laugh to think of you chasing a monkey to retrieve your soap dish! Looking forward to the next update. Travel safe!
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Jacqueline May 8th, 2010 at 10:32 am
I have been following you since you started packing up your truck in New York. I think you are very brave for embarking on such an adventure, and I am always nervous when a few days go by without a new post. I am so excited for you that you made it to Africa. I am really looking forward to vicariously seeing all the sights of the Eastern Hemisphere! You are often in my thoughts and prayers. Onward forth!
~Jacqueline
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Nick – “On The Road Again” (Willie Nelson) Sounds like a good first day out of Durban. Best wishes as you travel on.
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I have enjoyed reading your accounts of your journey, but am particularly interested in the African leg. Africa just seems so different from anywhere else in the world! Good luck and take care! Thanks for the wonderful stories and photos.
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Karey Gene May 8th, 2010 at 5:14 pm
Glade your back on the road. Them monkeys are quick little suckers 4 sure.
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orlikowski May 8th, 2010 at 5:50 pm
Super mon pote l’Afrique une bonne aventure mon gars.
Tes photos sont super, magnifique……….
Un BIG UP pour toi ma poule, amuse toi bien et fait attention.
Stéphane. -
Thank you so much for the great update. How unbelievable that you would encounter so many different types of animals at once. The beach looks wonderful – and look at the hippo yawn – wonderful! Again, thanks so much and good luck.
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Hi Nick, I’m glad to see that you are back on the road, with a clean car ! Take care, D
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Edwin May 9th, 2010 at 4:35 am
Nice to see you and your truck are ok. Don’t forget to change the fuel filter once you get to the Middle East or perhaps halfway across Africa if you use a lot of low quality fuel.
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Congrats Nicolas……Wish you all the best, by the way I’ve been following you since November since your preparations…:-)
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Thomas May 9th, 2010 at 10:07 am
Great Pictures! Glad to see you’re back on the road! Be safe and enjoy!
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Diego Frangi May 9th, 2010 at 10:55 am
Nick!! so good you are on the road and in Africa!! great post, all we were waiting for: animals, a beach, monkey drama!!!
Keep driving,
D -
Think you’re seeing lots of wildlife now, in St Lucia? Wait until you get to Kruger. If you spend a week you will likely see all the big 5 and probably literally thousands of others. Too bad you don’t have a companion to watch the other side of the road. Try to find one and get a good pair of binoculars. Best wishes!!
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Nicolas, some real beautiful pictures – looks like you’re enjoying Kwa-zulu-Natal. The striped animal with the majestic horns looks like a kudu-bull, one of my favorite animals – so gracious!
Drive safe – oh, off course this is the start of SA’s wintertime and days will be shortening with night-fall earlier on the east coast.
Enjoy! -
A much needed update Nick, glad to see you have your truck and the oil system is nothing serious.
Enjoy Africa, it looks gorgeous!
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Dexter L. May 10th, 2010 at 9:18 am
Great pics, Nick! I found myself thinking the same thing, “wow, there’s just wildlife everywhere!” Safe journeys, man – keep us posted, we’re hangin’ on every word here!
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Nick,
Happy to hear you are back on your adventure. That is such a great sunset photo. Enjoy. ~Steve
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abe salinas May 10th, 2010 at 9:58 am
Great to see that you are back on the road!
Keep posting your adventures as I am following your journey throught your words and photos.
Please be careful and be safe.
Abe Salinas
Laredo, TX -
Great to see you back on the road! I’ve been waiting of the post and it was great! So jealous sitting in my cubical wishing I was in Africa!
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Araceli May 10th, 2010 at 6:38 pm
been following your blogs since you began the trip. It is amazing that you are in Africa… already almost half way throught the trip. Congratulations for getting this far and still having the best adventures ever. I love seeing the pictures since that is the best way to imagine the places that you are visiting. Keep on and much luck to the next half of your trip.
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I’m enjoying your trip immensely. i should have sent you a little note about Gibela Backpackers in Durban. That is one of the cleanest Hostels in SA. There is nothing like trying to go to sleep & being grossed out by your sleeping arrangements(that happened to me @Swaziland Backpackers).
I’m enjoying your travels from Hell’s Kitchen! -
Marielle Lelantier May 11th, 2010 at 4:58 am
Contente de savoir que tu as récupéré ta voiture… j’adore tes photos d’animaux sauvages, mais attention aux hippos, i sont pas commodes !
Bonne route 😉 -
So glad you are on the road for the African leg of the trip! May you be safe on your advantures! God bless you! I’ll keep on reading…
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Christine May 13th, 2010 at 7:17 am
Nick, I enjoy reading your blog very much. Thank you for sharing your travels with us.
Stay safe and enjoy! -
Amazing journey Nick, how is the tent holding out?
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cooooooooooooool
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I’ve been following the blog since it started though I am behind in reading the posts. Thanks Nick for letting us all tag along virtually. I have learned much from reading about your travels. Stay safe.
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Great wildlife sightings Nick! Happy to see you’re still on the road and throughly enjoy reading about all your adventures:)
