Through the winter in Northeast Asia

Playing video games in Osaka.
Playing games in Osaka.

Of course in Seoul it is very cold as well. The city is very modern and I am impressed by the services offered in the subway, for example. There are terminals to access the internet for free, giant touch screen to get information and maps, devices to disinfect your hands and all sort of other gadgets. A lot of people speak English in Korea as well, which makes it easy to find my way around.

Some kind of giant iPhone facilitates the navigation.
Some kind of giant iPhone facilitates the navigation.

I am lucky enough to be invited to stay at the apartment of the parents of Jenni, an AP ex-colleague. Wherever I go to discover the city, I have to do it fast, because it is really cold out. Unfortunately the weather will make the visit of the capital uncomfortable as it is difficult to spend time out.
Everybody is completely wired, and as I take the subway, I am the only one not watching TV on my cell phone or playing video games. Again, quite a contrast with what I have seen in this trip. It looks like half of the planet’s population is trying to get enough to eat and the other half live in a virtual reality.

In the hills. is there someone behind me?
In the hills. is there someone behind me?

The snow and cold doesn’t stop me to go out the following day and visit COEX, the largest underground mall in Asia. No wonder it is located in Korea given the winter temperatures… Later I change scenery and go up in the hills to reach some kind of mountain village just a few minutes away from downtown Seoul.

Seoul, seen from the hills.
Seoul, seen from the hills.

It’s Kuisadang, located on the slope of Mount Inwang. The royal national shrine where shaman rituals are conducted to this day is a beautiful place in a city that I find quite dull. Maybe it is the period of the year. Between Christmas and New Year’s, there’s not much happening, and most attractions are closed.

On mount Inwang.
On mount Inwang.

It is pleasant to be among the trees, climbing paths and watching frozen streams in the quiet afternoon. Soon, I have to go back down because of the chilly wind. Dumplings will be my lunch.
In the evenings, I go with Jenni’s brother to the public baths. It is quite an interesting place, and I should describe how it is since I don’t have picture. These bath houses are usually located in basement of buildings. A lot of Koreans use the service, but I hear that the younger ones now don’t go as often as they became more uncomfortable with nudity. I imagine it is one of the effects of globalization.

Downtown Seoul. The city calls itself "The soul of Asia". Overstatement?
Downtown Seoul. The city calls itself "The soul of Asia". Overstatement?

Anyhow, it cost you US$5 to go in, and as you pay, a locker key is given to you. There’s a male and women section, and when you find your locker, you get entirely naked and go to the next room. There you find different water pools which temperatures ranging from cold to very hot. My Lonely Planet guidebook described a feeling they call exhilarating when switching from cold bath to hot bath and all over again. Let me tell you I spent way more time in the hot bath… You also visit dry or humid sauna rooms with temperatures ranging from 60C to 100C (140 to 212 Fahrenheit).

Statue of King Sejong.
Statue of King Sejong.

Before and after the baths, there are showers where you can wash. Soap, shampoo and toothbrushes are supplied. Quite a nice place to relax after a day spent wandering around.

Typical Korean meal.
Typical Korean meal.

Korean food is at my taste as well. Bulgogi which is barbecued beef is one of my favorite meals since a long time, and I also like bibimbap which is a bowl of rice topped with sautéed vegetables, an egg and chili pepper paste.

Typical street in downtown Seoul, a modern city.
Typical street in downtown Seoul, a modern city.

After few days in the capital, I decide to seek a warmer weather in the south of the country. I take a train to Gyeongju, a city on the east coast of Korea which used to be the capital until 935 AD. My ride is one of these bullet trains so common in Asia and developed by French engineers. It is very quick to get to my destination as speed – displayed in the cars – was averaging 260 km/h (160 mi/h) when I looked at it.

Gyeongju. Tumulus in the heart of the city.
Gyeongju. Tumulus in the heart of the city.

The main features of old Gyeongju and the easiest to access without a vehicle are Tumulus which are grass-covered burial grounds spread all over the city. Those are similar and serve the same purpose than Egyptians pyramids, but smaller. Most of the building activity seems to have happened around 500 AD, and restoration and excavation work only began in the 20th century.

Elegant temple.
Elegant temples.

It’s still not Florida here, and I spend my first night in a freezing guesthouse dorm. This will be the kind of accommodation I will use until I get back to the United States. It is just a brief stop I do in Gyeongju as I leave by bus the day after to reach the close city of Busan, few hundred kilometers only from the Japanese coast.

Tumulus after snow falls in the night.
Tumulus after snow falls in the night.

As I arrive I try to make a reservation on the following day ferry to south Japan. All the overnight ferries are full, and many of them are not running the following days because of the New Year. Finally, I decide to take the Beetle, a fast ferry getting to destination in few hours (US$130).

Before and after the “Trans World Expedition” effect.
Before and after the “Trans World Expedition” effect.

For my last night in Korea, I decide to go get Korean barbecue one more time. As always, I meet some people in the restaurant and they invite me to try a selection of local drinks. This is one thing that is amazing when you travel alone. You are constantly invited to share a table with people, and locals are way more likely to speak with you then when you are with fellow travelers.
In the morning I get to the ferry terminal only to get annoying news. The weather is too bad for the boat to depart as the sea is rough between the two countries. Once again I am a victim of the weather.

Downtown Osaka, Japan.
Downtown Osaka, Japan.

But soon enough, and thanks to the free Wi-Fi networks present everywhere in Korea, I am able to book a plane ticket leaving in the afternoon to Osaka. Too bad I will have to scratch my plans to visit Hiroshima, but at least I am on the move and will be able to spend more time in the Kyoto area.

Osaka. You may find food, drinks and cigarettes in vending machines scattered all over the city.
You may find food, drinks and cigarettes in vending machines scattered all over the city.

After a bumpy flight I arrive in Osaka in the early evening. Taking the train from the airport, I get in the city center and find my guesthouse. As I go get dinner, I identify the next challenge: finding cash. For some reason, the Japanese banking system remained unusually closed to global transactions, and it is difficult to get money from ATMs with a foreign credit card. I am able to find a restaurant where I can pay with the card, but I will have to find a solution soon to this problem.
One of the most intriguing things in Japan is the smoking rule. At the opposite of the occidental laws, it seems that you can’t smoke in cities outdoors, but you enjoy more freedom in indoors public space. For example, there are many places where you can’t smoke in the street, but it is allowed in restaurant, bars, public baths or video game arcades. Strange…

People of all ages spend a lot of time in video game arcades.
People of all ages spend a lot of time in video game arcades.

The following day I put together all of the cash I have from the countries I visited previously. I still have a lot of Thai Bahts, and with my Malaysian Ringgits, Indian Rupees and Bangladeshi Thakas, I should be alright for a while. It turns out that money changers are not interested by the Indian and Bangladeshi money, but I still get enough money from them to check-in in a capsule hotel for the night and get dinner and a few drinks. Which is significant since it is December 31st and I shall go out at least until midnight. Osaka is a city of three-million people an offer a nice preview of Tokyo.

New Year’s Eve in a capsule hotel.
New Year’s Eve in a capsule hotel.
Inside the capsule. TV provided if you are willing to pay.
Inside the capsule.

These hotels are very economical on Japanese standards, as you can get a bed for US$34 on the shelves of a well located hotel. Capsule hotels are unique to Japan. There you find many small “rooms” which are called capsules, the goal being to provide economical lodging. The plastic capsules size to a modular plastic or fiberglass is around 6 feet x 3 feet x 3 feet (2 meters x 1 m x 1 m). It does provide enough room to sleep comfortably. TV above your bed is provided if you are willing to pay. There are vending machine and Laundromat everywhere as well as free baths similar to the one I saw in Korea. Cost for one night: US$ 33 in one of the 400 Asahi Plaza Shinsaibashi capsule. I am sure the concept would work in New York City.

Hole-in-the-wall shop in Osaka.
Hole-in-the-wall shop in Osaka.
Osaka alley.
Osaka alley.

Everything is expensive in Japan. Prices for everything are higher than in the U.S. You can hardly have simple dinner for less than $US 25. Surprisingly, very few Japanese people speak English which makes it difficult to communicate in everyday situation. One of the consequences is that most of the time I have no idea what I order in restaurants. And even after eating, I still have no idea what it was. But it is pretty good!
I spend New Years Eve evening in an Irish bar, but even here, it is very quiet. Apparently this holiday is the equivalent of Thanksgiving Day in the U.S., and most people like to spend it with their family. Christmas is the opposite, and people go out with friends for the occasion.

Fish shop in a Osaka food market.
Fish shop in a Osaka food market.

In the morning, I leave the hotel and take a train ticket to Kyoto which is only a 45 minutes ride from Osaka.

About Los Angeles, U.S.A.
Few people have expressed interest in meeting me in Los Angeles. I have a stand-by ticket on the Delta Airlines flight 284 arriving at LAX @ 8:40am on Sunday January 9, 2011. There was some discussion about maybe getting breakfast after that, but everything is up in the air. If interested you should contact Han Duong on one of these emails: or . Thanks to everyone offering accommodation in the city, but I will stay at my old friends Andy and Michelle place.
I will be pretty busy in L.A. as I will have to work on the clearance of the truck and do some minor work on it as well, but will also be willing to meet for drinks later in the week. I will post information on the website.
My father should join me in the city and we will cross the U.S. together. Las Vegas is the likely destination when we leave the coast.

80 Replies to “Through the winter in Northeast Asia”

  1. I am so jealous of any and all that will be able to meet Nick tomorrow for coffee. What a surprise to arrive without a welcoming committee. Those pesky datelines! Thanks again – it has been so fun to ride along with you.

    Mary – South Dakota – definitely not on anyone’s route this time of year 🙂

  2. LOL What a crazy return! lt only gets better from here on buddy. Am def gonna see you when u get to nyc. Cheers. Be Safe.

    Surfer Dude

  3. Welcome home Nick! I hope you are able to relax and enjoy meeting up with many of your faithful followers. Wish I were able to be one of them. Congratulaltions on completing (almost) your goal. Take your time and really savor the last leg! As always, travel safe!

  4. Oops! Nick forgot about the international date line! 😀

    Welcome back to the States Nick!

  5. You’ve done it! I know you have to drive across country but that should be a piece of cake compared to some of the places you have had to drive. I am so excited for you that your mission is just about accomplished. What a feeling that must give you. Now you KNOW you can do anything you set your mind to. CONGRATULATIONS !!

  6. Wahoooo!!!! You’re back in the US (I’d say you’re home, but I know France is your true home.) Welcome back! We love having you as part of the fabric that makes up the good ole US of A! I am really hoping to catch up with you in Vegas.

  7. Welcome home. I can only imagine the look on your face and the thoughts that went through your mind slightly before realizing the time difference. Looking back I bet you laughed really hard. I hope you all have a super great time at the welcoming party today.

    WELCOME HOME!!!!!!!


  8. Hey Nick,
    Glad you’re back! I’ve followed your trip for several months now, and saw that you had stopped to speak at one of the schools here in Baton Rouge, LA. Thanks for doing that–I imagine the kids and teachers really enjoyed your presentation. If you ever come to Baton Rouge again you can perhaps speak at our public library–they sometimes present speakers such as yourself. I’ve constantly been fascinated by your trip–I’d love to hear you in person. Have a wonderful rest of the trip.
    Best wishes,

  9. Bienvenue!! So glad to hear you are back in the states. Reading all of the blogs, I was I could be their in LA, too! Please let us know all about the homecoming and how many people were able to attend. You definitely can feel the excitement in everyone’s posts!

  10. Wow, my old stomping grounds….Studio City….Wished I were there and not in Spokane, WA.!

    Following you from the beginning has been a real treat. You took me places I will most likely never see in my life time! What an education from my chair!

    Your return to the U.S. is somewhat bittersweet for me knowing that you must return to your everyday life not having any more wonderful worldly adventures to post for us all to read (at least for now anyway)! My, what are we all going to do now? LOL….LOL…

    You must be elated knowing you accomplished this journey on your own basically without the help some people suggested you take (i.e. armed guards). Kudos to you Nick!

    It really would be a feather in the hat if you would at least ‘consider’ writing of your journey to share with us all who felt we were there with you in spirit. You know…little details that go along with all the photos that you just didn’t have room or time to share. I know I would enjoy the read!

    In any case…thank you for sharing this with me…and everyone else. Safe trip out of L.A. and through Vegas (I have lived in both sin cities)…Now its time to see the rest of the USA. Enjoy!

    Safe Journey to you…
    Spokane, WA

  11. well, you’ve come full circle! welcome “home.” so many people welcome you back. eat well. enjoy the football playoffs, ProBowl, and Superbowl as you travel across the nation.

    repeating others, columbus, Ohio is right on Interstate 70 and a straight shot to New York. please consider traveling through, we’d love to share a beverage with you.

    peace and smooth travels,


  12. Good News Han Duong, and thanks so very much for keeping us informed. I am sure that we will hear from Nick in due time. Enjoy yourselves and drive safely to Las Vegas, all of you.


  13. Welcome back to the US Nick! What an amazing journey!!! Hope you and your Dad have a great time seeing the US. Wish you were passing close to us, we would offer you a place to stay. Thanks so much for sharing your adventures and I have learned so much from you.

  14. Han Duong -Did you have any luck with the media coverage? Like many other followers I would have loved to have been there to meet Nick and welcome him back. If there were any news stories or video could someone post a link to them?

  15. Hi Nick,

    When is your car arriving? I would like to take a picture with you and your car before departing LA.

  16. Once again Nick you should consider revising your trip and come up to Columbus, Ohio. We are a great city and here at Phoenix Middle School we have followed you very closely and would love to have you. It would be an easy trip up 71 and would put you in perfect position to go to NYC. To go from there all you do is go up 70 merge into 76 and then merge into 78!

  17. Nick,
    really enjoyed the conversation on Sunday, and meeting your friend, ( I can’t remember his name) An interesting group with much to offer. I would like to confirm, to those who may be curious; as I was, He has a french accent.

  18. Hey, Nick! Are you planning to have a party in Brooklyn when you come back here? We’d love to have you over for dinner, if you’d like some yummy vegetarian fare…we live in Park Slope…have a safe drive across the country!

  19. Hello Nick!

    Welcome Back Home! We are in Ft Worth Texas, if you come by this area and need a place to spend the night, we will be glad to have a hot meal and a clean bed for you and your father. Thanks again for taking me around the world and share with all of us an incredible adventure!


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