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THE ROUTE
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Market day in the Andes
The animal market in Otavalo
Diana, our host in Popayan
I guess a lot happened since the last time I wrote. First of all, we were able to find a place to stay in Popayan. We met a nice family who let us stay in the driveway of their house and taste homemade marmalade. Diana and her husband did not only let us sleep there; she also invited us to have breakfast in the morning at the hotel she manages, La Loma
After this taste of luxury, we visited the city and it’s beautiful white houses, colonial style.
Like always, we wished we could have stay longer, and get a better feeling of the place in the evening, but we had to be on our way, and around 1 p.m., we were back on the Pan-American, in direction of Pasto.
Flying through the clouds
The drive down there, through the mountains was pretty, especially close to twilight, when the rain and light changed the surrounding landscape.
All the places we park to sleep are not exactly paradise
Eventually, in Pasto, we set camp in a truck parking lot which GPS coordinates was given to us by our French friends who camped there the day before on their way south.
Beautiful road across the mountains
Temperatures are getting colder as we advance, which get us worry about the cold we will meet in Peru and Bolivia.
Santuario Las Lajas
The following day, as we got closer to the Ecuadorian border, we exited the main road to visit the Santuario Las Lajas close to Ipiales.
The rain will come
After cooking a quick lunch, we speeded to the border, anxious as always at the idea of the long waiting time. As a matter of fact, it could have been worst, and we were done with everything in three hours. The whole process was free. It is always exciting to get to a new country. Perhaps because such an adventure could stop at any time if something bad enough happen, and the further I am, the best I feel.
Land border between Colombia and Ecuador
We decided to drive a bit in the darkness for once, as I wanted to be at a lower – and warmer –altitude. Once in Ibarra, feeling dirty and attracted by low prices of hotels, we decided to check in and enjoy a warm shower. It did cost us US$6 per person at the Hotel Imbabura (recommended). There were some nice restaurants in town, and it was great to relax after another long day of driving. When I woke up, I continued to work on the AP story I’m schedule to send soon about our travel through Central America. There are some great bakeries since we arrived to Colombia, and again, we took advantage of it. There is only one sad thing I would like people to explain to me. Why would you be in the area where the best coffee beans in the world are grown, and you regularly are offered Nescafe in coffee shops?
The animal market
Anyhow, we were ready to get back on the road. This time, cap on Otavalo, a close-by village in the mountain famous for its Saturday animal and craft markets. The markets date back to pre-Incas time where people from the lowlands were coming up to exchange goods with people from the mountain.
Breakfast at the market
I have to say, the animal market was by far my favorite, and the craft market, oriented toward the tourist crowds didn’t offer anything amazing. I saw more seducing hand-knit goods in San Cristobal, Mexico, for example. It is recommended to wake up early to see the best of the animal market, and to avoid the tourist buses coming up from Quito.
The animal market borders the Pan-American
In the small town, we stayed in the hotel, Residencia El Rancio, for US$5 per person. Yes, that’s right, two hotel nights in a row. As you guess, we are dreading the cold, and taking advantage of cheap places as we can. But don’t worry, soon enough your favorite travelers will be back under the rain.
The equator line
At 10 a.m., we were on our way to cross the equator line. We passed it around noon, on the Pan-American. Nothing much to see there, and in addition, we were on our way to pick up another traveler who will spend time with us in the upcoming weeks. Dan was arriving at 1:30 p.m. at the Quito airport. It was raining hard as we were going down south.
I promised my old friendI will get him some fresh oil
9 Responses to “Market day in the Andes”
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Bill Brown February 6th, 2010 at 10:09 pm
Great photos, Nick. The colonial architecture is outstanding. Now, you’ll be crossing the equator 4 times on your trip? Be safe.
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At $5 a night, who would want to sleep in a truck? Glad to not see any Toyota problems today and that you’re on the move. Keep it up!
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I see on Twitter you are in Banos! I LOVE BANOS! I got drunk on Tequila there I remember and some nice waterfalls. Have fun!
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great Post like the new friend in this one as well. Sounds like a great time you living life right 4 sure. Like that you look sharp in pictures White dress shirt. You have class bro- dee.
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Dexter L. February 8th, 2010 at 9:03 am
I agree – you shouldn’t feel guilty about choosing a hotel when some of your campsites cost that much! Take advantage of it while you can! The guy putting oil in the truck looks like he’s thinking a thing or two about you, namely “what is wrong with this gringo?” !!! Too funny!
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Marti-Nashville February 8th, 2010 at 9:41 am
Nic, I have to say this was one of the more enjoyable and interesting representations of your trip. You made it more personal! Also have to say the picture of you, Nadia and Diana was the best you have posted of the two of you!! You both look happy and rested! Maybe you should find more of those $5 hotels more often.
Looking forward to your friend Dan joining the two of you. You’ll sure have some stories to tell him!
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pascale February 8th, 2010 at 10:36 am
C’est génail de suivre cette aventure
nous envisageons plus que sérieusement un périple avec les filles
sur la côte ouest des EU en 4X4
peut-être pourrons nous compter sur toi à ton retour
pour nous filer un coup da main dans la location du véhicule ?bonne route
des bises from Paris
Pascale -
NYC Hombre February 8th, 2010 at 3:08 pm
You are in Banos?!?! I love that place, I also got drunk there with some German folks, Club beer of course. We were there to see the Tungurahua volcano do its thing. Awesome Nick, awesome!!!
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Keep up the great photos! My Global Cultures students are really enjoying all the out-of-the-way places you are photographing and writing about. What an adventure! I’m guessing the lack of local coffee has to do with having to export it all??? You’re right…that is sad.
