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THE ROUTE
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Cambodia, the kingdom of water
View of the Tonle Sap Lake from the road leading to Phnom Krom.
After another stop to spend the night on the beach in Cha-am, I just have another short stage of 170 miles to arrive to Bangkok. There, I pick up Vikas and we spend two nights at his parent’s house before driving east.
Arriving in Bangkok.
I unload some bulky items I know we will not need in our Cambodia expedition, so there’s more place in the vehicle, and I am a little bit lighter getting ready for roads which I imagine – wrongly – should be pretty bad.
Angkor Wat, believed to be the largest religious monument in the world.
On Monday at 1 p.m., we cross the border between Thailand and Cambodia, which is a very easy operation. Very conveniently we applied online for the visa (US$ 25) and it saves us some time on the field. We still have to wait half an hour for the custom officers to finish lunch, but the process is painless.
Rice cultivation.
We continue our drive to the countryside where rice cultivation replaces the rubber trees plantations visible everywhere in Malaysia and in the border area in Thailand. Last time I saw these rubber trees, I was in Malawi. Most of the rubber is used to produce tires, which comes as a surprise to me since I imagined for some reason that the rubber used nowadays was completely synthetic.
Giant smiling faces in Bayon, part of the fortified city of Angkor Thom.
The flooded Cambodia landscape is reminiscent of Bangladesh, and here too fishing is going on everywhere in canals along rice crops. In the afternoon, we arrive in Siem Reap, the gateway to Angkor.
Bayon, coming from the southern gate.
The Ta Prohm ruins.
Cambodia used to be a French colony, and my compatriots re-discovered the Angkor site in the 19th century, and since then, the site is under restoration. The three decades of war did slow down the work, and there was virtually no tourism during this time. The ruins of Angkor are in the jungle and it is an outstanding place to visit. Only in Peru I saw such grandeur. Construction of the ancient Khmer empire center started in the 1100 and as much as one million people lived there at its apogee. It is a lot of people, and by comparison, the actual capital of the country has nowadays a population of only two millions. The Ta Prohm ruin there was definitely the most exciting to me. The site was swallowed by trees and the jungle, which allows the visitor to see the ruins as probably all Angkor looked like when discovered by explorers a hundred year ago.
Mysterious Ta Prohm.
We sleep for two nights in the courtyard of a backpacker hotel, but camping is not facilitated by episodes of strong rain. We don’t have much time because Vikas just has a week of vacation, so soon enough we take the direction of Phnom Penh, the country capital. Thankfully the roads are in great shape, so we can cover a lot of ground every day. By the statistics the population of the country is pretty poor, but what you see seems to be far from it. In fact it looks like the quality of life is way better compared to a lot of country I crossed.
Nice roads and not much traffic.
There, we go to a hotel and don’t waste time before going out again to find places to get drinks and a nice diner. The city is very charming, and as I mentioned, has an unusually low number of inhabitants. With its two million, the city is the size of Houston, USA. Lot of small buildings and French influenced restaurants. We take advantage of it, and the following day we go to visit the Tuol Sleng museum.
The Tuol Sleng museum.
The former high school was converted to a prison by Pol-Pot security forces. In the seventies more than 17,000 people went through the detention center before ending up in the killing fields of Choeung Ek. Very depressing place where thousands were tortured by the Khmer Rouges.
Soon we are back on the road. This time we will go south toward the coast.
Cooking outside of Phnom Penh. (Photo Vikas)
34 Responses to “Cambodia, the kingdom of water”
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Cambodia was an amazing country for me in its cultural sights, natural beauty and friendly people. Your photos really capture all that!
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Jeff Mignon November 19th, 2010 at 7:40 am
Missing you in NY, my friend.
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I hope you get more photos of Thailand–my home country–on your return! So,so proud of you! You are amazing! Hope to wave at you as you drive past my house on your way HOME!!!!
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Jeff mignon November 19th, 2010 at 7:58 am
When are u planing to be back in Bangkok? I want you to meet my very dear friend Sin.
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suzanne November 19th, 2010 at 2:01 pm
again, i am transported to the other side of the planet! about a year ago National Geographic featured Angkor and its many ancient accomplishments. you’re lucky that you get to actually see its ruins, but the article might deepen your understanding if you read it when you have time. Angkor really was a marvel for its time.
in regard to cambodia, laos, and vietnam: isn’t it amazing what a difference of 30 years can make. i always thought it looked like a beautiful place. too bad it holds such painful memories too.
hope you enjoyed all 110 joyful messages sent your way. be safe.
suzanne
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LW Warfel November 19th, 2010 at 6:12 pm
Your progress is so amazing! Keep going! There are many of us who are living vicariously through you. Praying for your safety, focus, good health, and energy.
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Amazing, amazing, amazing! Be safe!
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Donna Sunny Florida November 19th, 2010 at 7:23 pm
It’s true, so many of us are living vicariously through you and enjoying every single mile. Hope the next stretch is as great. Wondering what the date for coming back home is. Wondering if I missed it somehow. Stay safe and have fun…
with hugs from the USA,
Donna -
Nicolas November 19th, 2010 at 8:17 pm
Hello all,
Thanks so much about the avalanche of messages in the last post. I see that there are a lot of usually silent people following me as well.
I did have a look at my website statistics, and it looks like we have around 1,600 visitors coming to the website everyday, which is pretty good.I will be leaving Cambodia today and will spend the next week in northern Thailand. On Monday I will pick up a new visitor from the US at the airport.
Speak to you soon!
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Dr.JoyMaria November 20th, 2010 at 9:29 am
Hello Nick:
How nice it is to hear from you. Regarding your website stats would you mind sharing with us the names of the countries, cities and/or towns of your followers? You would not need to associate names with locations. I am so very excited to know where in the world all of your new friends happen to be. Interesting that every time I now write or use the word “world” in reference to you my global perception is different. You literally know the world very differently than most of us (the land, people, etc.) and I have been greatly impacted by your experience. Looking forward to hearing all about Thailand and especially the food. Take care, and many blessings your way.
-joyMaria -
I’m with you Dr. JoyMaria!
I too would like to know where all the followers are from. Perhaps the easiest would be a site like facebook where each follower could put a pin on the map provided on the facebook page. I didn’t see that Nick has a facebook account but that would be easy to set up. So what do you say Nick?
Cheers with beers,
Manolo
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Nick, I try to follow you from my cell phone as well as home computer. Weird enough your website is blocked by our company (maybe the name raised suspicions). I would like to visit Angkor some time in my life. I hear the Hindu epic of Mahabharata is depicted in pictures there. I grew up listening to stories from this epic and would love to see those again.
Are these temples in ruins or they still hold their majestic look?
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Cambodia looks like a nice peaceful country to visit. I think I’ll add that to my list!
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Charlie A (Santa Clara, Ca.) November 21st, 2010 at 1:00 pm
Hi Nick,
I love the picture of Tone Sap Lake. It is amazing. I can’t wait for your post. -
Kathleen M November 21st, 2010 at 8:46 pm
Nick, I feel like the “grandmother” of your followers. I am so proud of you~I have followed your trip since the beginning and love it when there is a new post. Your photos are amazing and I want to be one of your buyers of the first printing of your book…..hint.hint..!
Three of my seven grandchildren are old enough to enjoy your blog with me.
I am addicted to travel…this spring I am doing my third journey to China.
The trip ahead sounds very exciting along with the anticipation of coming home. Godspeed!
Kathleen
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You should consider coming on you way through the U.S. to Columbus, Ohio we are right in the middle of Ohio. At Phoenix Middle School we have been following your expedition very closely and would love for you to come. Have a great trip and safe journeys.
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Karey Gene November 22nd, 2010 at 11:47 am
great blog as always
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Matt Holtz November 22nd, 2010 at 2:58 pm
Great Blog. I do hope you are not in Phnom Penh anymore since what happened today or last night.
http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/40318112/ns/world_news-asiapacific/
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Well done Nicolas, on a great year’s travel and this excellent blog. I sicerely hope that if you are still in Phnom Penh that you were not close to the bridge stampede! http://www.news24.com/World/News/Death-toll-from-Cambodia-stampede-rises-to-339-20101122
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Yes, please post soon and let us know you are alright.
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If you look on the right hand side of Nick’s blog, you can read his latest posts via Twitter. I, too was concerned about him when I heard the tragic news in Phnom Penh, but it looks as if Nick is already in Thailand with Cambodia in his rear view mirror, thankfully!
Suzanne A. (Atlanta)
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Sue Lewis November 22nd, 2010 at 8:37 pm
I have been with you from the start and I am shocked and amazed that it has been a whole year! You have redefined the word “perseverance”. Well done Nick.
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Hi Nick –
I’m so proud of you! You’ve come so far, I too can’t believe it’s already been a whole year. I love seeing your blog and it allows me to visit places in the world that I would be too scared to visit (ignorant I know). Your journey has inspired me,
If you ever are in Chicago , please let me know. It’s nothing compared to the places you’ve been but you have many fans here!
Safe Travels!
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Antonio Farach November 22nd, 2010 at 11:07 pm
Cooking the Nick’s classic spaghettis!
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I used to get all my world travel adventures from sunday night episodes of The Amazing Race. Following your journey over the last year I have enjoyed how much time you get to spend enjoying each location, it is much better following someone who is not going at race speed, and only seeing the editors version.
Safe Travels!
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Caroline November 23rd, 2010 at 3:22 pm
Tu nous fait faire un beau voyage, à travers tes aventures et tes photos.
Merci Nicolas. Je te revoie encore devant ton Mac chez Andco… Tout jeune, tout neuf !
Bravo pour ton parcours dans tous les sens du terme !
Bises Caroline et Denis -
Ms. Marti~Nashville, TN November 23rd, 2010 at 3:41 pm
Hi Nick! So glad to hear that there are friends that want to travel with you again. Too bad they couldn’t be with you in the rougher spots of the world!! As we all can tell by your blog, things are much better these days in your travels, and your spirit.
Forge on my friend!
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Hello Nick. I’ve been following your travels since your departure from NY. Have thoroughly enjoyed your posts and would like to thank you so much for sharing. Question I have is why you didn’t travel to Vietnam? I was deployed there isn 1968 and would have loved to have seen some pictures of it as it looks today.
Have A Safe Trip
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Hi Nick,
I tought about you this morning, going to visit an account in your former employer building. Thanks for your insight on Asia. beautiful pictures -
Dr.JoyMaria November 24th, 2010 at 12:26 am
As our family proceed with planning a fantastic Thanksgiving dinner and sharing the many things we are indeed thankful for this American Thanksgiving holiday, I want you to know that I am thankful for a wonderful year of experiencing the world through you. Happy Thanksgiving.
-joyMaria -
suzanne November 24th, 2010 at 6:26 pm
re: Dr. Joy’s sediments :you’re so right!
my family has many things in which to be thankful also. we are certainly blessed. personally, i’m so honored and Thankful that i got to journey with you across the globe.
i am truly Thankful for you.
How will you (or will you) celebrate the Thanksgiving holiday? whatever you do, enjoy.
suzanne
(hope you do pass through columbus, OH. FYI: the OSU Buckeyes play University of Michigan the 27th). -
Rob (Missouri) November 25th, 2010 at 1:35 pm
HAPPY THANKSGIVING NICK,
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I’ve been following your blog since you started, hell of a trip!
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Happy Thanksgiving Nick!
